How to Build Your Own Hand-Operated Log Splitter

Hold the 3 1/2-inch pipe in a steel vise and measure 4-inch length. Cut the piece of steel pipe with a power hacksaw. File the end smooth with a heavy steel file.

Place the 6-inch piece of angle steel in the vise. Use the torch to heat the connection point of the two flanges to a steel-work temperature -- 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit -- recognized by its cherry red color. Remove it from the vise and place it with pliers on a concrete surface. Hold a straight piece of pine wood inside the flanges, acting as a straight-line stop as the metal is worked. Pound the flanges together with a sledgehammer until they reach 45 degrees. This is best done by going halfway on the first flange and then flipping the piece over and pounding the other flange.

Place the 6-foot steel pipe in a vise and heat one end with the torch to a steel-work temperature. Pound the end of the pipe with the sledgehammer forcing the end into a blunt arrowhead shape of approximately 45 degrees.

Place the 4-inch angle steel in the vise and double-weld the crimped end of the 6-foot pipe inside the flanges.

Slide the cut piece of 3 1/2-inch pipe over and down the 6-foot pipe -- cut end first -- until it comes to rest at its base, touching the previous weld. Double weld all connecting surfaces on and around the 3 1/3-inch piece.

Slide the 3 1/2-inch pipe down onto the 2-in pipe -- cut end first -- ensuring that it slides freely from top to bottom. (Note: if there is difficulty with the smoothness of the slide, try reversing it.) When lubricated, this outside pipe sleeve becomes the hammer that drives the splitter.

Weld the end-cap on the other end of the 2-inch pipe -- to prevent losing the outside pipe.