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DIY Lightweight Cement Concrete Planter

Authentic, old-world stone troughs for planting have become increasingly popular in the garden. While beautiful, these can be expensive and difficult to find. If you do happen to find one at the right price, remember to bring help as the weight of the container will likely exceed your lifting abilities.

An alternative is a lightweight or hypertufa container. Again, these can be purchased at nurseries and garden supply stores but are also expensive. So if you are the do-it-yourself type, it makes sense to create your own.
  1. Hypertufa Recipe

    • The materials needed are a mold, piece of plastic, sphagnum peat moss (either shredded or long-fibered), perlite or vermiculite, Portland cement, shredded fiberglass (for strengthening the concrete), a large shallow mixing container and pencils or three-eighth-inch dowel rods. Most of these items are available at hardware or building supply stores. Fiberglass either shredded or in sheets can be purchased at some boating supply stores.

      First, choose a mold for your container. This might be a plastic dishpan, discarded food container, cardboard box or wet sand. Cover the mold completely with a large piece of plastic such as a garbage bag. Eliminate as many wrinkles in the plastic as possible. Your container can be formed on the inside or the outside of the mold, depending on the mold and desired final size. Containers formed on the inside of a mold will yield a smoother surface; those formed on the outside of a mold will have a rougher texture.

      In the mixing container, combine one part peat moss, one part perlite or vermiculite, two parts cement and one handful of fiber mesh. Add enough water to make the mixture into a thick, peanut-butter-like consistency. It should hold its shape without water pooling on the surface. Go slowly when adding water to mixture, as the difference between not enough and too much water can be as little as a teaspoon.

      Start patting the moist mixture onto the mold. Make the bottom about two inches thick and be sure it is level. Make the sides one to two inches thick--the thicker, the sturdier. Insert pencils or dowel rods in the bottom to create drainage holes, leaving them in place.

      Set the container in a dry place such as a garage or basement. Alternatively, a shady spot in the yard works well. Let it dry for several days, misting daily to keep surface slightly moist. Let stand another two days before removing from mold. Remove pencils or dowel rods and make sure the holes are still open. At this point, you can get creative and either carve designs in the container or use a stiff wire brush to rough up the outside, giving the texture and resemblance of a weathered pot.

      The final drying takes another two to four weeks depending on the weather. Your container is dry when it sounds hollow when tapped.

    Finishing Touches

    • Once your container is dry, it can be used immediately and in its current condition. However, it is easy to add a bit of color to the container in any number of ways. Acrylic paint is the easiest option and perhaps the most inexpensive. Other methods include use of an oil-based stain mixed with a sealant such as Thompson's water seal offers a finished look that is transparent and weather resistant. For those of you who are more adventurous, a concrete acid stain will yield a beautiful, permanent finish and years of enjoyment.