How to Build an Outdoor Canopy

How to Build an Outdoor Canopy

• 1

  Lay out the four piers for the corners of your canopy. Since the roofing material comes in 3-foot widths, a 12-foot-by-12-foot canopy is easy to plan for. For a 12x12 canopy we can build a base that is 11 feet by 11 feet, thus allowing for a 6-inch overhang on each side.

• 2

  Put in four piers to form an 11-foot-square perimeter. Make sure the piers are at least 2 feet deep and 1 foot square. Place an anchor plate designed to hold the end of a 4x4 into the top of each pier. Make sure the piers form an even square.

• 3

  Cut four posts from 4x4 stock of equal length (anywhere from 8 to 10 feet) and set each post in place. Make certain that the top of each post is level. This can be done after they have been set on top of the anchor plates and nailed in place. This means you will have to cut each post while it is standing vertical. To do this attach braces first and use a crosscut hand saw to make the cut.

• 4

  Lay a grid of 4x4s on top of the posts to help stiffen the frame and support the roof rafters. Start the grid by cutting one 4x4 to span the tops of two of the posts. It can be any two posts as long as they are adjacent. This will be the low side of the roof. The top piece of 4x4 should be attached with 6-inch lag bolts that get tightened down with a hand wrench (use three lags for every joint). Make sure to drill a good-sized pilot hole first.
  Measure two more 4x4s to run from the side of the horizontal piece to the top of the two front vertical posts. These two framing members will sit completely on top of the front posts but join directly into the side of the rear horizontal piece. Each joint can take three lag bolts.
  The final post sits on top of the two side pieces and spans the entire width including that of the side pieces. Again attach with lag bolts that are preceded by pilot holes. Now you got a big frame but is probably a bit shaky and will need some braces.

• 5

  Make eight braces from 4x4 stock. Each brace should be about 2 feet long and have a 45-degree cut at each end. Make these cuts on top of some saw horses with a circular saw or a hand saw. A precise cut means a clean, tight fit. Each brace should create a very short span between a vertical and horizontal piece of 4x4. Each joint can take three lag bolts, but these can be a little shorter (4 to 5 inches is good).

• 6

  Install all the braces with pilot holes.

• 7

  Make the roof frame from 2x4s and galvanized framing nails. This can be done on the ground and then installed as a single unit. The overall unit should be exactly 11 feet 6 inches by 11 feet 6 inches with 2x4s forming the outside perimeter. All the rafters can run at 24 inches on center. No special cuts are needed, just cut everything square and then nail tightly. You will need blocking between the rafters. Do this at 2-foot intervals. Now the roof frame is ready to go in place.

• 8

  Place the grid of 2x4s on top of the standing frame and center it. Each 2x4 will touch the 4x4 frame in two places except for the two framing members on the very outside. Once the frame is centered, toenail each point of contact with four galvanized framing nails.

• 9

  Run the redwood strips across the blocking from one edge to another. The strips should be applied with galvanized casing nails, plus they should run in a continued series so that the rise and fall of the strips is uniform across the whole length of the blocking.

• 10

  Nails the translucent roofing sheets to the redwood stripping. Every sheet gets overlapped by several inches or enough to cover two valleys, but don't forget to seal one valley with a long bead of clear silicon caulk. Then start nailing with the special nails designed for the roofing. Nail at the crest and not the valley.