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How to Make a Hexagon Picnic Table

This hexagon shaped picnic table will be a favorite family meeting place for many years to come. Finish it with your favorite color stain or decorate it with paint to customize it to your patio or picnic area. It will be a great conversation piece and no one will believe that you built this yourself.

Things You'll Need

  • 110 feet 2-inch by 6-inch Boards (treated)
  • 66 feet 2-inch by 4-inch Boards (treated)
  • 3/8-inch by 4-1/2-inch Galvanized carriage bolts
  • 4-inch Galvanized flathead nails
  • Metal strapping
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre saw
  • Hammer
  • Drill and bits
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Instructions

    • 1

      Cut the boards for the seating and the tabletop. Use 2-inch by 6-inch treated lumber. Cut six 53-inch boards for the seats and taper each end at 60-degree angles. Cut six 46-inch boards for the seats and taper each end at 60-degree angles. Cut six 35-inch boards for the table top and taper each end at 60-degree angles. Cut six 28-inch boards for the table top and taper each end at 60-degree angles. Cut six 21-inch boards for the table top and taper each end at 60-degree angles. Cut six 14-inch boards for the table top and taper each end at 60 degree angles. Cut six 7-inch boards for the table top and taper each end at 60-degree angles.

    • 2

      Cut the boards for the upper support frame using treated 2-inch by 4-inch lumber. Cut one 69-inch board and taper each end at 60 degree angles. Cut four 33-1/2-inch boards and taper one end at a 60-degree angle. On two of them, cut the other end (top to bottom) at the junction of a 90-degree angle and a 120-degree angle so that when viewed from the top, you see a slightly offset point. Cut the other two the same way, only use the junction of a 90-degree angle and a 130-degree angle.

    • 3

      Cut the boards for the lower support frame using treated 2-inch by 4-inch lumber. Cut one 105-inch board and taper each end at 60-degree angles. Cut four 51 1/2-inch boards and taper one end at a 60-degree angle. On two of them, cut the other end (top to bottom) at the junction of a 90-degree angle and a 120-degree angle. Cut the other two the same way, only use the junction of a 90-degree angle and a 130-degree angle.

    • 4

      Assemble the top and bottom support frames using metal strap plates and nails.

    • 5

      Nail the tabletop boards to the upper support frame starting with the outer most boards. The outer most board should be placed 53 inches from the center, or 1-1/2 inches overhang on the support frame. Work in a circular motion around the frame.

    • 6

      Nail the seating boards to the lower support frame in the same fashion as the tabletop boards.

    • 7

      Cut the boards for the legs using treated 2-inch by 4-inch boards. Cut six 32-3/8-inch boards and taper each end at opposing 60-degree angles.

    • 8

      Turn the tabletop upside down on a flat, level surface. Turn the seating frame upside down and position it correctly over the tabletop. Use blocks to lift the seating to the right height. (There should be approximately 15 inches difference in the top of the tabletop and the top of the seating). Position the legs seven inches inside the edge of the table top and 17-3/4 inches inside the edge of the seating platform. Using clamps, drill holes and insert the carriage bolts, washers and nuts.

    • 9

      Finish with an exterior paint or stain.