DIY Garden Chairs

Cut two back supports from the 2-foot-by-4-foot boards. Back supports should be cut to a length of 30 5/8 inches. Trim away from one end of the board to create an end with a 30-degree angle.

Cut two armrest supports from the 2-foot-by-4-foot board to a length of 23 1/8 inches. Trim one end at a 15-degree angle. Trim the other end of the board at a 5 degree angle. The two angles should be cut in the same direction, so that more board is cut off the top of the board on the first cut, and more is cut off the bottom of the board on second cut.

Cut two 2-foot-by-4-foot board seat supports 21 inches long with a 10-degree angle on one end.

Cut the two front legs from the 2-foot-by-4-foot board. They should be 25 1/2 inches long with 5-degree angles cut from each end in the same direction.

Cut the two rear legs from the 2-foot-by-4-foot board. They should be 27 1/4 inches long. Trim the ends to a 45-degree angle and a 50-degree angle cut in the same direction.

Cut the front seat slat for the chair from the 1-foot-by-4-foot board. It should be 25 1/2 inches long.

Cut six basic slats 33 3/8 inches long from the 1-foot-by-4-foot board. These will be used for the seat and the back of the chair.

Cut two armrests 20 2/8 inches long from the 2-foot-by-4-foot board.

Mark and drill holes in the boards. Holes should be drilled with a 3/8-inch drill bit in the center of the boards width. Measuring from the diagonal cut end of the long side, mark a hole in the back support at 5 5/8 inches and at 15 5/8 inches. Measuring from the end cut at a 15 degree angle of the armrest support, mark a hole 2 3/8 inches from the end. Measuring from the end with the 5 degree angle, make a hole at 2 inches in. Mark holes at 1 3/4 inch, 9 3/4 inch and 18 3/4 inch on the seat support boards, measuring from the straight end. In the front legs, place the first hole 2 inches from the end, and the second 10 ¼ inches from the end. In the rear leg support, measuring from the long side of the 50-degree angle, mark a hole 5 inches in.

Prepare the carriage bolts for use by pushing a washer up to the head of each bolt.

Lay out the armrest and seat supports on a level working surface, preferably a workbench. Lay the back supports, front and rear legs across them.

Line up the bolt holes in the vertical and horizontal boards. The back support should line up with the rear holes in both the seat and the armrest. The rear leg should line up only with the middle hole on the seat support. The front leg should line up with the front hole on both the armrest and seat support.

Push a carriage bolt through each hole, and secure it by placing a nut on the back side of the boards and tightening it completely.

Repeat this assembly for the other side of the chair.

Lay both back supports on the work bench and stand between the right and left hand sides of the chair to assemble the seat. Begin by screwing on the front seat slat. Work backwards, screwing each board slat to the frame. Keep the two halves of the frame 25 1/2 inches apart. If they are not kept equidistant on the seat slats, the legs will not remain parallel, and the chair will not sit stable when assembled. There should be a slight space between seat slats. Three of the basic slats will be used to form the seat. Use the other three to form the back, above the armrests.

Stand the chair up. Make sure the seat is level and will sit stably. If it will not, make adjustments to improve the balance and stability.

Lay the armrests on top of the armrest supports and screw them into position.

Use sand paper to round rough edges, and smooth away splinters.

Use stain to complete the project. Choose a stain that will match other garden furniture and that also acts as a water sealant. The sealant is important to protect the furniture from weather damage.