DIY Wood Tables

Cut your table top on a table saw from 3/4 inch thick cabinet grade plywood in your choice of grains. Make the top 30 by 30 inches. Cut four pieces of 1-by-2-inch lumber for the edge of the table top. Cut the pieces 31 1/2 inches long. Miter the ends at 45 degrees, one right and one left with the pieces standing on edge. Cut four pieces of 1-by-4 for the table skirt, 29 inches long. Miter the ends at 45 degrees, one right and one left with the pieces standing on edge.

Cut the table legs 30 inches long. Measure from the bottom of the leg up 30 inches and mark that point on the square block at the top of the leg.

Glue and nail the four pieces of 1-by-2 around the edges of the plywood table top, with one long edge of each piece flush with the top face of the table top and the mitered corners matched up at the four corners of the table top. Use a pin nail gun and drive nails through the 2-by-2 into the edge of the plywood, one nail every 6 inches. Nail the mitered corners together, one nail in each corner.

Use a pocket screw jig and drill to make pocket screw holes along one long edge of each of the table skirt pieces. Place each piece with the longer wide face down so that the bevel of the miters slants down to your work top. Clamp the pocket screw jig in place and use the pocket screw bit to make a pocket every 6 inches along the edge of the board.

Put four pocket screw holes in the square block of each table leg. Clamp the jig at the end of the leg, so that the screw will run up into the table top when installed. Center the jig on the leg. Drill one hole like this in each of two adjoining faces on each leg. Measure from the top end of the leg to 1 3/4 inches and mark the leg on each face that you pocket screwed on the edge opposite the corner between the two pocket screw holes. Do this on both pocket screwed faces. Drill a pocket screw hole in each of these marked spots, so that the screw will run horizontally into the inside face of the table skirt when installed.

Glue and nail the table skirt pieces together to form a 29 inch square frame with the pocket screwed edge facing up. Nail through the mitered corners to join them together, three nails in each corner. Turn the table top face down and center the skirt frame on it, pocket screw holes down. Drive one pocket screw into each hole, using a square drive bit in the drill.

Fit one table leg into each corner of the table skirt, with the end of the square top block against the table top. Situate each leg so that the two faces with no pocket screw holes are against the table skirt. Drive one pocket screw into each hole in each leg, starting with the screws running up into the table top. Stand the table on its feet.

Fill the nail hole and seams between pieces with solvent based wood filler and a flexible putty knife. Allow the filler to dry completely. Sand the entire table with a random orbit sander and 150-grit sandpaper.

Apply two coats of stain and finish all-in-one in your choice of colors to the table top, skirt and legs. Use a soft, natural bristle paint brush to apply the finish. Work with the grain, brushing gently to avoid bubbles in the finish. Apply the stain as evenly as possible to prevent runs and drips. Allow the manufacturer's recommended drying time between coats. This can be found on the can label. Allow 24 hours for the finish to cure before using the table.