Measure 4 inches in from the end of each of the 33-inch planks, which will be the end aprons of the outdoor table.
Make a housing 1-1/2 inches wide and 1/2-inch deep, using the router at the 4-inch mark on the end aprons. Wear a dust mask at all times when working with pressure-treated lumber, as any particles breathed in can be hazardous.
Lay two of the 28-inch planks, which are the table legs, on the work surface on a 2-inch edge. Fit one of the end aprons over the legs, with the housings mating with the legs. The ends of the legs should be flush with the top of the apron.
Drive two wood screws through the back of the housing into the legs to secure them together. Repeat with the remaining 28-inch planks and the other end apron.
Stand the legs upright with the aprons facing outward. Position the two 37-inch planks, which are the side aprons of the outdoor table, between the legs and flush with the top of the legs and the end aprons.
Secure the side aprons with four wood screws driven through the ends of the side aprons into the legs of the table.
Insert the 24-1/2-inch plank in between the side aprons, centered for a support plank across the middle of the table. The top of the support plank should be flush with the side aprons, legs and end aprons. Secure the plank in place with two wood screws driven through the side aprons into the abutting ends of the support plank.
Position the decking evenly over the top of the table frame with a 1/4-inch space between each plank; it should be running parallel with the side aprons.
Secure the decking to the table frame with two deck screws driven through the end of each piece of decking into both of the end aprons as well as the support plank.
Seal the outdoor table with wood preservative according to the manufacturer's instructions. Leave it for at least month before you stain or paint the table so the wood is completely cured.