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DIY Redwood Table

Redwood is the ideal material for constructing your exterior furniture. Not only is it beautiful, redwood’s high-durability means that, even if left untreated, it will not deteriorate under pressure from the elements. For those on a tighter budget, Construction Common or Duck Common grades will be the best option, while Construction Heart or Duck Heart offer optimum durability. The following guide is based on a 5-foot by 2 1/2-foot table; adjust your measurements for the size of your choice.

Things You'll Need

  • Measure
  • Electric drill
  • 1/8-inch drill-bit
  • 1/4-inch drill-bit
  • Bar clamp
  • Two small G-clamps
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Screwdriver
  • Handsaw and miter box
  • 25 feet of 2-by-6 timber
  • 21 feet of 2-by-4 timber
  • Two sets of 3½-inch by ¼-inch machine bolts, washers and nuts
  • Box of 4-inch deck-screws
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure five lengths of 60 inches on the 2-by-6 and cut them out, using a handsaw and miter box. Decide which face of each length looks the best and place each one, best face down, on a clean work top. These are the slats for the table top.

    • 2

      Place the slats in a row, leaving a quarter-inch space between each. Insert quarter-inch spacers in the gaps at approximate 12-inch intervals. Attach a bar clamp to the long edges of the outer slats and clamp the slats in place. Place the clamp in the center of the slats but don't overtighten the clamp, or it will damage the wood.

    • 3

      Cut two lengths of 27 inches from the 2-by-4 timber. Mark a point 2 inches from one end, on the top edge of each length. Do the same for the opposite ends. Mark a second point on each end edge, 2 inches down from the top. Trim each end between the points you have marked, using a handsaw and miter box. These are the cleats for the table top.

    • 4

      Place one cleat across the slats, trimmed edge up and 7 inches from one end. Place the second cleat across the opposite end of the slats in similar fashion. Leave a three-quarter-inch gap between the ends of each cleat and the table edges.

    • 5

      Drill 10 holes, two for each slat, into each cleat. Use a eighth-inch drill-bit for the holes. Switch to a quarter-inch drill-bit to widen the holes at the top in order that the screws can be countersunk. Screw the cleats to the table top, using 4-inch deck-screws.

    • 6

      Cut four lengths of 36 inches from the 2-by-4 timber. These are the table legs. Mark a point 3 inches down on the left-hand edge of each leg and trim the tops at 38-degree angles. Mark a point 3 inches up on the right-hand edge of each leg and trim the bottoms at 38-degree parallel angles.

    • 7

      Place one leg on top of a second leg to make an X shape. Ensure the top and bottom edges are parallel, both to each other and to the floor. Drill a hole through the center of both legs. Repeat this step for the remaining two legs. Clamp each pair together with G-clamps, ensuring you don't cover the drilled holes.

    • 8

      Screw the tops of each pair of legs to the outer face of the table top cleats, using a screwdiver and 4-inch screws. Use two screws per leg.

    • 9

      Cut two lengths of 24 inches from the 2-by-4 timber. These are the leg braces. Trim both ends of each leg brace with 45-degree angles. The top and bottom angles should be opposite, rather than parallel like the legs.

    • 10

      Drill a hole right through the bottom angled ends of each brace. Insert bolts through the centers of the legs and through the hole in the braces. Attach washers and nuts to the ends of the bolts and tighten. Screw the top ends of the braces to the underside of the table top, using 4-inch countersunk screws. Remove the G-clamps from the legs.