Pour a paste finish remover into a bucket. Brush the stripper onto a 2- to 3-foot section of the table surface with a 4-inch synthetic paintbrush in a thin layer. Let it sit according to the package directions.
Use a metal file to round the corners of a putty knife so you do not gouge the table. Once the stripper has set for the proper time, hold the putty knife against the table surface and gently push it across, scraping up the melted finish.
Continue until you have scrapped up all the paste finish remover and the finish. Paint the next 2- to 3-foot section of the table with the finisher, let it sit, then scrape it away. Repeat until you have done the whole table.
Paint a 2- to 3-foot section of the table with a liquid finish remover. Let it sit according to the directions, then scrape the tabletop with a medium-grade steel wool, using long, even strokes to prevent scratches. This will remove any stuck-on finish from the old stain.
Paint the next section with the liquid finish remover, then scrape it away with the steel wool. Continue over the whole table. Let the table dry, then sand with 220-grit sandpaper, following the wood grain. Wipe it with a tack cloth to remove dust.
Paint a dark walnut liquid wood stain onto the table with a paintbrush. Only apply it to a section that you can work before it begins to dry. Paint the stain with the grain.
Wipe off the excess stain with a clean cloth in long, even strokes that follow the grain. Repeat on the next section of the table until you have stained and wiped the entire thing. Let the stain dry for 24 hours.
Paint a polyurethane semi-gloss finish onto the surface of the table with a natural-bristle china brush. Apply a thin, even layer and let it dry according to the directions. Lightly sand the coat with 220-grit sandpaper and wipe it with a tack cloth.
Apply two more coats of the polyurethane, sanding between each coat. Let the final coat dry overnight.