How to Build an Outdoor Patio Table

Cut the 2-by-4 lumber into four table legs of 28 inches, two side aprons of 37 inches, two end aprons of 33 inches and a central support plank of 24 1/2 inches. Make two housing cuts 4 inches in from each end of the end aprons, 1 1/2 inches wide and 1/2-inch deep. Chisel out the waste wood from between the housing cuts, so there are two clean housings in each end apron.

Lay the table legs on the work surface, resting on the 2-inch side. Slot an end apron over two of the legs. The legs fit into the housings on the apron, with the apron flush with the end of the legs. Screw the apron into the legs with two deck screws through each housing. Repeat with the other legs and the remaining end apron.

Stand the legs upright, aprons on the outside. Position the side aprons between the legs, flush with the top of the legs and the end aprons. The end aprons will jut out past the side aprons about 2 inches. Use four deck screws to attach them in place. Screw through each end of the side apron into the patio table legs.

Position the support plank across the center of the table frame. Shave a little off the ends of the support with the plane if they don't quite fit. Secure the support plank in place with two deck screws through the side aprons into the abutting ends of the support plank.

Cut six lengths of decking to 48 inches and position the decking over the top of the table frame. There should be around 1/4 inch between each plank. All the ends should be flush. There will be about 6 inches overhang on the table ends and 2 inches overhang on the sides.

Secure the decking in place with two 1 7/8-inch deck screws through the decking into each end apron and the support plank, which makes 6 screws per deck plank.

Paint or varnish the patio table as desired, or you can paint the frame of the table and varnish the decking on top for an attractive finish.