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How to Make a Bar Stool Be Weatherproof

Bar stools are one of those furniture choices that can stick with you for a long time. A cinch to refinish and reupholster, they can evolve with your tastes and transition to different areas of your home beyond the original kitchen bar. Outdoor patio bars and bar-height tables have become common, and bar stools are the perfect seating option because they are lighter than high chairs and easier to get onto and off of. Before you relegate your stools to the outdoors, take a few simple precautions to make them weatherproof so they will last as long as possible.

Things You'll Need

  • Screwdriver
  • Sandpaper or steel wool
  • Rust-proof metal paint (optional)
  • Waterproof polyurethane or metal sealer, spray
  • Upholstery foam in desired thickness
  • Batting
  • Staple gun with upholstery staples
  • Waterproof, mildew-resistant outdoor fabric
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Instructions

    • 1

      Remove the seat from the stool structure. Stationary stools are usually held on by four screws that can be removed with a screwdriver, but those with swivel mechanisms might have a more complicated connection. In this case, detach the seat in a way that keeps the swivel mechanism attached to the stool structure, not the seat.

    • 2

      Smooth the structure surface. Sand wood structures to remove splinters and scratches, then give the whole thing a once-over to scuff up the surface. Don't sand powder-coated metal structures, because you'll only scratch the finish. Use steel wool to remove actual rust spots, then dab a rust-proof metal paint onto the rusted areas.

    • 3

      Spray the structure with a waterproof, outdoor-safe topcoat. Wood does well with polyurethane, but metal requires a metal-specific topcoat that will adhere to the surface better. Apply the topcoat in several thin coats, rather than one or two heavy coats to hasten dry time and avoid drips. Allow the structure to dry completely.

    • 4

      Remove the fabric upholstery from the seat by using a large, heavy flat-head screwdriver to pry out the upholstery staples. If your seat has a plastic backing, you can pry that off with the screwdriver as well -- it usually just snaps on over the underside of the seat. Remove all foam and batting from the seat until you are left with the plain wood base.

    • 5

      Cut a new piece of foam to cover the top of the seat, and attach with spray adhesive. Be sure that the foam lines up with the edges of the base precisely unless you like the slouchy look.

    • 6

      Unroll a length of batting, spray it with adhesive, and place the foam-covered seat upside down in the middle of it. Wrap the batting around the cushion, and staple the batting into place on the underside of the wood base. Do the corners first, them make neat folds to allow the flat sides to lay properly. It is not necessary to cover the entire underside of the base with batting -- just staple it an inch or two away from the edge.

    • 7

      Wrap fabric around the seat the same way you did the batting, but allow the fabric to cover the edges of the batting completely. Staple three widely spaced staples on one side, pull the fabric tight, and put three staples on the opposite side. Pull the third side taut, and staple it three times, then do the fourth side. Turn the seat over to make sure the fabric is pulled evenly and there is no distortion in the print. Add more staples until they form a solid "seam" on each side of the underside of the base.

    • 8

      Reattach the seat to the base the same way it was originally attached.