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French Polishing & Finishing Furniture

Victorian furniture craftsmen used French polishing to achieve a high gloss on mahogany and wooden pieces. A quality polish depends largely on skill, and the technique requires few materials. The finish has shellac, a substance coming from the lac beetle. Harvesters take the lac from trees hosting the beetles, then melt it and turn it into thin sheets and brittle pieces. French polish comes in several different shades, from red-brown for mahogany furniture to translucent white hues for light-colored woods.

Things You'll Need

  • Shop cleaning supplies
  • Broom
  • Vacuum
  • Wood filler treatment
  • Clean rags
  • Sandpaper
  • Upholstery batting/cotton wool
  • Clean cotton squares
  • French polish
  • Scrap wood pieces
  • Linseed oil
  • Fine-grade steel wool pad
  • Methylated spirits
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Instructions

    • 1

      Clean your shop and work area well. Sweep and vacuum thoroughly so debris doesn't get stuck in your finish during polishing. Set up in a dry, warm room. Humidity forms milky blotches on the furniture while the polish dries. Avoid fan and gas heaters, because they kick up dust and humidify the room.

    • 2

      Treat the wood with filler if the furniture is stripped. Find a filler that closely matches the wood color. Wipe it on against the grain, then remove excess filler with a clean rag. Sand the furniture with fine sandpaper. Sweep and vacuum before moving on.

    • 3

      Make a French polish applicator, called a rubber. Fold a 6-to 9-inch square of cotton wool or upholstery batting in half. Fold the rectangle corners in to make a triangle. Wrap the triangle corners in to make pad. Sit the pad on a diagonal on the center of a 9-to-12-inch white cotton fabric square. Fold half the fabric over the pad, then fold the corners in to form a parcel. Twist the ends, and use them as a handle, making sure the sole is crease-free.

    • 4

      Open the rubber, and pour enough polish directly on the pad to wet but not soak it. Fold the cotton fabric, and press it against a surface -- not the piece you're polishing -- to remove excess polish. Apply a drop of linseed oil to the sole with your finger so the rubber will glide across the surface.

    • 5

      Rub the polish on the furniture against the grain, working quickly with little pressure at first, then a bit more as the polish begins to dry out. Keep the rubber moving at all times. Apply a thin layer over the entire surface area, including corners and grooves.

    • 6

      Polish in a circular motion over the entire surface area, then switch to a figure eight, and repeat until the rubber doesn't have any polish left. Allow the finish to dry to the touch.

    • 7

      Apply more polish to the rubber as before, then polish the entire surface in circular motions, then figure eights until the polish is gone. Repeat this step until you're happy with the number of coats, always letting the finish dry to the touch between coats. Allow the finish to dry for 24 hours.

    • 8

      Rub a fine-grade steel wool pad over the furniture to smooth out any clumps or excess polish. Dust the entire surface. Apply a light layer of polish, starting with the grain, then across it, moving on to circular motion and figure eights. Continue this step until the polish is even. Allow the table to dry for 24 hours.

    • 9

      Apply a small amount of polish to the rubber, and several drops of linseed oil to the sole. Wipe the entire surface from edge to edge until the surface is smooth, though it will be dull. Allow the finish to dry for 5 to 6 hours.

    • 10

      Create a new rubber with fresh batting and fabric. Pour methylated spirits on the pad instead of polish, then seal it in a container for 15 minutes for even soaking. Wipe down the furniture surface to lift some of the polish.

    • 11

      Buff the piece with a clean cloth, using medium pressure until the finish shines. Let the piece dry for 2 to 3 days.