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How to Make a Stool With a Wood Stump

The key to making a stool out of a tree stump is to start with quality wood. The longer your tree stump has been dead, the better. In fact, if you find one that's been dead long enough to lose its bark, you're in luck. You can skip perhaps the most labor intensive part of the transformation process. Once you have the right dried stump, you're well on your way to creating a natural stump that's sure to be a conversation piece.

Things You'll Need

  • Chainsaw
  • Hacksaw
  • Hammer
  • Crow bar
  • Wood chisel
  • Medium grit sanding block
  • Fine grit sanding block
  • Extra fine grit sanding block
  • Broom
  • Tack cloth
  • Wood stain
  • Polyurethane wood sealant
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Instructions

    • 1

      Cut the stump with a hacksaw or chainsaw. Make the cut perpendicular to the tree's center line. If you're cutting a tree into a stump, you'll need to make two cuts -- one for the top and bottom of the stump. If your first cuts are not as level as you would like, smooth them out with a hacksaw. A comfortable seat diameter for a stool is generally 15 to 20 inches.

    • 2

      Leave your stump to dry out in a cool, dry place with plenty of air circulation. If you have procured dried, long dead wood from a firewood supplier, the stump will only need to dry out for two to three weeks. If the stump is fresh from your yard, allow it to dry out for at least two months. Flip the stump once every two weeks so that it dries evenly.

    • 3

      Remove the bark so it won't fall off on its own later and make a mess. First, try pulling the bark off with your fingers, as some tree species shed their bark willingly. If that doesn't work, use a hammer and pry bar. Place the flat blade of the pry bar on the flat top of the stump where the bark meets the wood. Then tap on top of the pry bar. Once the bark is loose, pull it away with your hands. Repeat until all of the bark is removed. If the bark is really stubborn, you'll need a wood chisel. Use it the same as you would a pry bar, but take care not to chip or remove the wood beneath the bark.

    • 4

      Sand your wood stump smooth with a medium grade sanding block. Remove all of the loose wood hairs, rough edges and splinters. Then go over the surface with fine grade sanding block to smooth out the texture of the medium-grade sand. Finally, use an extra fine grade sanding block and sand until the surface of the stump is fairly smooth when you run your hand over it. Always sand in the direction of the grain of the wood.

    • 5

      Sweep the area clear of any sanding dust. Those fine particles easily float up and into your stain or sealant coats.

    • 6

      Wipe the surface of the stump with a tack cloth to remove clinging sanding dust.

    • 7

      Stain the wood. This is an optional step. One reason to stain is if the wood chisel chiseled away certain parts of the wood and not others. Applying a stain that matches the majority of the wood to the lighter sections will help to even out the color palette. Or, if the entire piece is lighter than you would like, a stain will dye the wood any color you desire. Work quickly as the stain will soak into the open grain in mere seconds. The editors at "Mother Earth News" recommend brushing the stain on and wiping it off immediately. If the stain is too light, repeat.

    • 8

      Apply polyurethane wood sealant to the sides, top and bottom of the wood stump using a natural bristle brush. You will need roughly four to six coats to successfully seal the stump. Allow each coat to dry for the manufacturer-recommended amount of time before adding a second coat. Sand the surface of the stump between each coat with fine grain sandpaper to remove any bumps or imperfections. Do not sand the final coat.