How to Build Drawers With Ball Bearing Drawer Slides

Cutting the Drawer Pieces

• 1

  Measure the drawer opening, finding the height, width and depth of the cavity. If you are making a replacement drawer, measure the old drawer instead.

• 2

  Subtract 1 inch from the opening height and width. Take away 2 inches from the depth. These reductions create adequate clearance for the slides as well as allowing the drawer to operate freely.

• 3

  Measure the drawer height and depth, marking the dimensions with intersecting lines on a sheet of 1/2-inch plywood. Repeat each measurement in at least one more spot a few inches away to ensure accuracy. Connect the measurements with a straightedge to outline the piece. Cut the piece out with a table saw and trace around it to outline and cut an identical piece. These are the drawer sides.

• 4

  Mark the drawer height and width measurements on a sheet of 3/4-inch plywood. Cut the first piece out and use as a template for the other piece. Using thicker plywood -- or dimensional lumber of the same thickness -- increases the drawer's structural stability.

• 5

  Create the drawer bottom from 1/4-inch plywood for a lightweight but strong platform. Use the width and depth measurements to mark the piece and cut it out with the table saw.

• 6

  Mark and cut a board to reflect the drawer height and width plus the amount you want the drawer to overlap the cabinet or structure's frame when the drawer is closed. A full overlay is typically an additional 1 1/2 inches both heightwise and widthwise, but this can be reduced to form only a slight lip. Additionally, the drawer front thickness can range from 1/4-inch-thick to 3/4-inch-thick wood. Choose the thickness that suits your application.

Forming the Drawer Joints

• 7

  Raise or lower the table saw blade until it rests at 1/4 inch above the table at its tip. Slide the fence to 3/8 inch away from the saw blade. Run the sides, front and back piece through the saw to make a kerf cut 3/8 inch away from the bottom edge of the four frame pieces.

• 8

  Move the fence to 5/8 inch away from the saw blade. Pass each piece through the blade again to create a second kerf cut. When complete, the two kerfs are 1/4 inch in depth and exactly 1/4 inch apart.

• 9

  Make additional cuts between the two kerf cuts or use a chisel and hammer to remove the remaining wood fiber between the cuts. These create a dado, a slot in the pieces that allows the bottom piece to be inserted inside the frame pieces slightly. You can also make dados with one pass of a dado blade attached to the table saw if you have the tool.

• 10

  Adjust the saw fence to rest 1/4 inch away from the blade and raise the saw blade to 1/2 inch. Flip the drawer front piece on end with the dado face -- the inner portion of the drawer -- facing the fence and the width of the drawer rising vertically. Run the board through the saw to create a kerf cut 1/2 inch deep and 1/4 inch away from the end of the drawer front. Turn the board around and repeat with the opposite side of the drawer front. Repeat with both ends of the drawer rear.

• 11

  Lower the saw blade to a depth of 1/4 inch. Lay the drawer front facedown with the kerf cut near the saw fence. Run each end of the front, then both ends of the rear, through the saw. When complete, each board will have an L-shaped lip on either side called a rabbet cut. Measuring 3/4 inch deep and 1/4 inch wide, when joined with the sides it creates a strong, three-sided joint.

Assembling the Drawer With Slides

• 12

  Squirt a thin bead of glue along each dado on the front, rear and side frame pieces. Insert the bottom into the dado on first one side piece, followed by the opposite side. Hold pieces in place a minute or two to ensure a good bond.

• 13

  Spread a bead of glue along the rabbet joints on the front and push the front in place with the sides fitting in the rabbet. Repeat with the rear piece. When complete check that each edge is flush before clamping the boards and setting aside to cure completely.

• 14

  Drive finish nails through each joint, spacing the nails 4 to 6 inches apart depending on the drawer size. While the rabbet joints and dados provide most of the structural strength, finish nails help reinforce the joints.

• 15

  Squirt glue across the drawer front and press the finished drawer front in place on top. Align the edges, checking to ensure the proper overlap exists on every side. Drive screws through each corner, using screws long enough to penetrate both layers of drawer front without breaking through the inner surface.

• 16

  Install the male portion of the ball bearing slides, if necessary, in the cabinet or structure. Following the manufacturer's instructions, measure up from the bottom of the drawer opening to the appropriate height for the slide -- generally about an inch. Attach the slide with three wood screws, which are typically part of the slide when purchased.

• 17

  Measure up from the bottom of the drawer and mark to align the female portion of the slide, once it's installed, with the male portion attached to the cabinet frame. Fasten the slide with three additional screws. Insert the drawer, moving the drawer to ensure the slides engage and hook together.

• 18

  Finish the drawer, adding a drawer pull and sanding the edges until smooth. Stain, paint or apply desired finishing product.