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How to Tile a Curved Vanity Top

Putting a ceramic tile top on a vanity creates a durable, attractive surface, which can match the tile in a bathroom or accent the colors in a dressing area. You can use tiles of any size, unglazed or with a shiny glaze finish, depending on your decor. Choose tile that is easy to cut and work with. Some ceramic tile is very brittle and hard to cut with smooth edges. Ask a supplier or a hobby shop for advice and match tile to the size and style of the vanity. The right tile can complement any vanity form.

Things You'll Need

  • Graph paper
  • Marker
  • Tile cutter - wet saw, jig saw, angle grinder or scriber and nippers
  • Tile mastic or thin-set mortar
  • Notched trowel
  • Tile spacers
  • Grout
  • Grout sponge
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Instructions

    • 1

      Design a vanity tile top with graph paper, to scale, to experiment with tile sizes and shapes to best fit the curved top. Work to get a pattern to require the fewest possible cuts. Use tiles all one size and shape or mix them in a pattern to suit the vanity. Buy tiles of a type that cut easily and smoothly; get "bullnose" or V-shaped tiles for edges if the vanity does not have wood molding on the edges.

    • 2

      Lay out tiles on the vanity top to test fit them. Use as many full tiles as possible. Mark tiles to be cut on the edges with a marker, on the bottom of the tile. Arrange tiles to fit inside the vanity top, if it has wood molding around the edge or if you will finish it with molding. Place them to the edge if you plan to cover the edges with tile. Leave space for any edging tile and a grout gap between tiles.

    • 3

      Practice cutting several tiles before making any real cuts. Use a tile wet saw, a jig saw with a special tile-cutting blade or an angle grinder with a tile blade to cut curves or a scriber and nippers for some types. Clamp the tile upside down on a flat surface if using a jig saw or angle cutter; use a wet saw only on tiles large enough to be held easily away from the blade. Scratch the tile with a scriber along the cut line and snap it off with the nippers; not all tile can be cut cleanly this way. Smooth cut edges with a grinder.

    • 4

      Arrange the tiles in a handy work area, on a level surface, in the position they will go on the vanity top. Cut a cardboard replica of the top to help. Get a prepared tile mastic or a thin-set mortar, depending on the surface of the vanity top, and a trowel with a notched edge.

    • 5

      Start at the curved edge and work towards a straight back or edge. Install bullnose or V-cap edges first; put mastic on the back of each tile and set it in place. Let the edges set before proceeding with the top. Skip this edging step if the vanity is framed with wood molding.

    • 6

      Spread a thin layer of mastic on the vanity top with the notched trowel. Place the cut curved tiles first. Use plastic spacers between tiles to keep grout lines uniform. Set each tile in place firmly into the mastic and check with a level to make sure the tops stay level and uniform. Work to the back and ends of the vanity. Trim straight edges if necessary to make the final tiles fit.

    • 7

      Let the mastic set overnight. Remove any spacers and put painter's tape over any wood trim on the vanity. Mix grout according to directions on the package and spread it with a grout sponge, forcing grout into the seams between tiles. Rinse the sponge and wipe off excess grout with clean water. Let the grout dry overnight, then wipe off any remaining residue with a clean damp sponge.