How to Replace the Base of Cedar Chests

Construction

• Cedar chests are built in three pieces; the lid, the box and the base. The lid is typically plywood with molding. The box is usually nothing more than hardwood plywood lined on the inside with aromatic cedar. The base is usually 3/4-inch thick lumber mitered or butt-jointed together at the corners to form a rectangular frame. The width and length of the base is slightly smaller than the box to provide a lip or toe-kick around the bottom perimeter of the box. The base is attached to the bottom of the box using screws or screw cleats. If the chest has been slid across the floor or dropped, it places unnatural stress on the base and it can crack, split or tear out the mitered corners. The bottom of the box is typically fine. Start the repair job by removing what's left of the base.

Base Removal

• Empty the cedar chest, and turn it upside down. Use a drill/driver to remove screws from the bottom of the box and the base. They may penetrate directly through the bottom edge of the base. Recognize this type of attachment by 1/2-inch countersunk holes in the edge of the base around the perimeter. Insert the tip of a drill/driver equipped with a Phillips tip, into the holes. Fit the Phillips tip into the screwhead, and back the screws out of the base to remove it. If the base doesn't have countersunk holes, remove the vertical and horizontal screws penetrating through 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch hardwood strips around the inside perimeter of the base. These strips, also known as screw cleats, secure the base to the bottom of the chest. If the base resists, tap on it with a hammer to break the glue bond. Insert the tip of a pry bar under it, and pry it off the bottom of the chest. Sand the bottom of the chest smooth with an orbital sander equipped with 100-grit sandpaper.

Build a New Base

• Measure the width of the base, and use a table saw to rip four identical pieces of 3/4-inch thick hardwood that matches the old base. If you're not sure what species to use, don't worry about it. It's not that important because the base is not highly visible, and you can stain it any color you like or paint it. If the front of the old base has scallops, dips or designs cut into the bottom edge, use the old pieces of base as a template to draw the designs on the new pieces. Us a jigsaw to cut the same designs on the new pieces. If the old pieces were mitered at 45 degrees, tilt the blade on a table saw and miter the corners of the new pieces. If you're not comfortable with mitering, cut the side pieces 1 1/2 inches shorter than the originals and use butt-joints by placing the side pieces flush with the ends between the front and back pieces. Add glue to the contact points, and nail the base together using a pin nailer with 1 1/4-inch pin nails. The pin nailer works on mitered or butt-joints equally well. Sand the corners and edges of the base using 100-grit sandpaper, and apply a matching finish.

Screw Cleats

• Use screw cleats to attach the new base. Your old base may have the countersunk holes penetrating through the bottom edge, but these are difficult to drill and typically have less holding power than the screw cleat design. Cut four pieces of 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch hardwood to fit around the inside perimeter of the base. Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes through each piece at 90 degrees to each other so that one screw penetrates horizontally into the base and the other screw penetrates vertically into the bottom of the chest. Add glue to the bottom of the base, and center it on the bottom of the chest. Add glue to both sides of the screw cleats, and place them around the inside of the base. Place 1 1/4-inch screws in all the holes, and drive them into the base and the bottom of the chest to finish. Allow the glue to dry overnight before using the chest.