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How to Make a Rolling Step Stool

You do not have to be a kid to need a step up now and then. If you find it hard to reach those kitchen cabinets near the ceiling, or that top shelf in the closet, this stool, adapted from "Build It Better Yourself," is for you. It employs bracing and 2-inch thick (nominal size) stock for all but the top, making it extremely sturdy for standing or sitting. Locking casters prevent unexpected rolling for safety and extra stability.

Things You'll Need

  • Measuring tape
  • Carpenter's square
  • Pencil
  • Saw
  • 1 board, 1 inch by 12 inch by 18 inches
  • 1 board, 2 inch by 10 inch by 28 inches long (cut into one 16-inch-long piece and two 6-inch-long pieces)
  • 1 board, 1 inch by 2 inch by 32 inches long (cut into two 16-inch long pieces)
  • Drill
  • Drill bits (1/16, 7/64)
  • Carpenter's glue
  • Screwdriver
  • 14 flathead wood screws, 1 1/2 inches long (6 gauge)
  • 6 flathead wood screws, 2 1/2 inches long (12 gauge)
  • 4 plate-mount locking casters, 50mm size (with matching screws)
  • Sandpaper
  • Paint or wood stain (optional)
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure and cut all boards to size indicated in the "Things You'll Need" list. Use a carpenter's square to ensure all cuts are straight and square.

    • 2

      Mark boards as follows for easier assembly: mark the 1-inch by 12-inch by 18-inch piece "TOP"; mark the 2-inch by 10-inch by 16-inch piece "BOTTOM"; mark the two 2-inch by 10-inch by 6-inch pieces "LEG"; mark the two 1-inch by 2-inch by 16-inch pieces "SIDE BRACE."

    • 3

      Measure and mark the TOP as follows: 1 3/4 inches in from each end, draw a line lightly across the width of the board on both the top and bottom. Along each of the top lines, mark points at 2 inches, 5 5/8 inches and 9 1/4 inches from one side.

    • 4

      Use a 1/16-inch drill bit to drill pilot holes at the points you marked, going all the way through the board to the underside.

    • 5

      Measure and mark the top of each LEG as follows: from one end, mark at 1 inch, 4 5/8 inches and 8 1/4 inches along the centerline of the board. (The centerline is measured from the narrow side and runs the length of the board. In this case, the thickness of the board is 1 1/2 inches; therefore the center is at ¾ inches.)

    • 6

      Use a 1/16 inch drill bit to drill pilot holes straight down about ½ inch into the LEGS at those points.

    • 7

      Run a thin bead of carpenter's glue between the holes on the tops of the LEGS.

    • 8

      Position the TOP over both LEGS so that the previously drilled holes of each are in alignment, then screw the TOP to the LEGS using six 1 1/2-inch-long screws.

    • 9

      Measure and mark a line 3/4 inch in across each end of both SIDE BRACES. Along that line, mark two points, each 5/16 inch from the edges.

    • 10

      Turn the stool on its side and place one SIDE BRACE at the top of the LEGS directly beneath the TOP, aligning it with the LEGS squarely from end to end. (To aid in visualizing this, imagine the finished stool. It will have a top---the part you stand on---and legs to hold up the top. Underneath the board that makes up the top, there are side boards or braces that run across from one leg to the other. Those are there to support the weight of the top board along the long edges, and to help hold the legs together in proper alignment.)

    • 11

      Drill straight through the SIDE BRACE and LEGS with a 1/16-inch bit at the marked points.

    • 12

      Apply glue between the drilled holes as before, and screw the pieces together using two 1 1/2-inch-long screws on each end (for a total of four screws on each side). Repeat with the second SIDE BRACE on the other side of the stool (again, using one screw for each drilled hole).

    • 13

      Turn over the BOTTOM piece and draw the a line ¾ inch in from the edge on each end of the board. Mark points at 1 inch, 4 5/8 inches and 8 1/4 inches along that line on both ends.

    • 14

      Turn the stool upside down. Position the BOTTOM on the underside of the LEGS so that it aligns perfectly with the LEGS, and then drill pilot holes at the points marked on the BOTTOM using a 7/64-inch drill bit. (Drill all the way through the BOTTOM and a short way into the LEGS to act as pilot holes for the screws.)

    • 15

      Apply glue between the drilled holes as before, and screw the BOTTOM to the LEGS using six 2 1/2-inch-long screws.

    • 16

      Position one caster upside down on each corner of the overturned stool so that the mounting platform (the metal plate that is used to screw the caster to the stool) is flush against the underside of the BOTTOM. Hold each caster in place and draw a line all the way around the mounting platform. Mark the screw positions by putting a pencil mark on the board in the center of each of the holes on the plate.

    • 17

      Remove the casters and drill pilot holes for the screws (in the places where you marked the centers for each hole) using a bit size recommended on the instructions provided with your casters.

    • 18

      Re-position the casters and attach with the screws that came with them. Turn the stool back over and test to ensure the casters roll and lock properly by rolling the stool around a bit and then locking and unlocking the casters to see if they stop rolling when they are in the locked position.

    • 19

      Sand and finish the stool with paint or wood stain if you desire.