How to Build a Cabinet With a Fold Down Trash Bin

Preparation

• 1

  Sketch a rough box, taller than it is wide. Measure your plastic trash can and label the height between the top of the cabinet to close to the bottom, draw a thick line then label the drawer height desired at the bottom. Allow for at least 6 inches clearance between the trash can and the top of the cabinet, 2 below it, and 2 or 3 inches width-wise to ensure plenty of room. Notate the cabinet depth required, based on the trash can plus 2 or 3 inches.

• 2

  Cut two pieces of furniture-grade plywood or other 3/4-inch-thick wood, measuring the height and the depth required, including clearances. These will form your cabinet sides. For a cabinet with a drawer 8 inches tall, holding a trash can 36 inches tall and 12 inches deep, for example, your cabinet sides might measure 44 inches plus 6 inches clearance plus 2 inches between the cabinet and drawer for a total of 52 inches in height; the depth of the side would measure perhaps 15 inches.

• 3

  Measure and cut the cabinet rear to fit the width plus the height measurements. Use 1/2-inch-thick plywood for a lighter rear piece. In the given example, if the trash can measures 12 inches wide, the pieces would measure 52 inches high and perhaps 15 inches wide. Of course, your results will vary from the example. Don't worry about allowing for the width of the side pieces; the joints used allow the edges to rest flush, rather than the shorter pieces required with butt joints.

• 4

  Cut the top and bottom pieces, using 3/4-inch-thick plywood, to fit the width and depth measurements. Given the previous example, these would thus measure 15 inches by 15 inches. Cut one additional board the same dimensions, less 2 inches width- and depth-wise, to allow clearance between this board, which will form the tray holding your trash, and the outside cabinet.

• 5

  Adjust the table saw blade to emerge 1/4 inch above the table. Move the fence to 1/4 inch away from the blade. Run one edge of either side piece through the table saw, laying it first flat to create a 1/4-inch-deep cut, then turning the board on edge and passing it through the saw again. When the two cuts meet, it forms the rabbet cut. Repeat with the bottom of the side boards, creating two rabbet edges total on the sides. Rabbet the bottom edge and both sides of the back piece as well, along with three sides of the bottom piece.

• 6

  Measure up, from the bottom edge of each side, the height of the drawer desired. Draw a solid line, then another 1 inch above the first. Make a vertical mark at 1 1/4 inches of depth along both horizontal lines to indicate a stop mark. This outlines the frame piece that rests between the drawer and trashcan.

• 7

  Adjust the table saw fence to align with the first mark on the sideboard. Turn the board so the rabbeted bottom edge is against the saw blade and cut along the first line. Cut a ¼-inch deep groove, along the line, stopping at about 1 1/4 inches into the board, at the stop mark. This is commonly referred to as a stopped dado.

• 8

  Move the fence slightly closer to the second line and repeat. Continue making small cuts between the guidelines, which will eliminate most of the wood. Complete the wood removal with a hammer and chisel. Alternatively, use a dado blade. When finished, this forms a cut that allows a board to insert slightly into the cabinet sides for added strength.

• 9

  Cut a 1-by-1-inch board to measure the width of the cabinet minus 1 inch -- the thickness of the wood frame -- a total of 1 1/2 inches -- less the ¼-inch recess made in each side -- for a total of 1/2 inch -- with the stopped dado. Make 2 blocks about 2 inches long in addition -- these will form stops inside the cabinet, to keep the trash from tilting completely out.

Finishing the Trash Bin

• 10

  Assemble the outer frame, gluing each joint before attaching. Fit the rabbet edges of the sides to the rabbet edges on the bottom. Follow by inserting the rabbeted rear in place. Glue the 1-inch-high board ends and insert in the stopped dado grooves cut into the side boards. Clamp pieces together and allow the joints to dry an hour or two, then nail through each with small finishing nails every 3 or 4 inches. At this point, the bottom, sides and back of your cabinet are in place with the drawer divider glued in place in front.

• 11

  Cut a piece of 1/2-inch plywood to measure the width of the cabinet by the height, from the top to the drawer divider. Glue and nail this board, which forms the trash bin front, to the piece previously cut for use as the trashcan tray.

• 12

  Measure the distance from the door to about half way back on the trash tray. Cut two 1-by-1-inch boards to fit. Angle the ends to fit flush against the door and tray. Glue and nail these in place, on either side of and flush with the edge of the tray to the door.

• 13

  Set the door assembly in place inside the cabinet. Attach the door to the cabinet with hinges, one per side.

• 14

  Tilt the door out until it travels as far as you want it to; make a mark inside the cabinet where the tray rests at this point. Leaving the assembly in place, glue and nail the blocks, one on either side of the cabinet, aligned with these marks. These serve as the limiter that prevents the trash door from falling completely open.

• 15

  Build a drawer, making a simple box. Cut the sides, using 1/2-inch-thick plywood, to measure the height of the drawer opening less 1 inch clearance by the depth of the drawer, allowing for 2 or 3 inches clearance between the drawer and the back of the cabinet. Make the front and rear pieces from 3/4-inch-thick plywood, measuring the width of the opening less the clearance dictated by the slides, if you are using them, or about 1 inch total.

• 16

  Cut a full-length dado groove across each drawer side about 1/4 inch above the bottom to allow the bottom board to fit inside the side pieces slightly. Repeat cuts, as necessary, until the dado is 1/4 inch high. Rabbet each edge of every piece where it joins another -- both sides of the rear, front and sides pieces.

• 17

  Measure and cut the bottom drawer piece from 1/4-inch-thick plywood, fitting it to the drawer width less 1/2 inches to allow for the thickness of the sides less the dado groove created. Glue each edge as it is assembled, popping the bottom into the dado groove and joining the front, rear and sides. Glue and clamp until dry. Reinforce with nails driven through the joints. Face with a drawer front, which should measure the opening plus 1/4 to 1/2 inch so it overlaps the frame when closed. Glue the facing to the drawer front, clamp and finish with nails again. Install rails and place the drawer in position when complete.

• 18

  Attach hinges to the cabinet top and the cabinet. Test for easy opening and closing before inserting screws. Follow with strips of veneer edge banding over all exposed plywood edges. Iron or stick and peel in place and trim according to instructions.