How to Build a Modern-Style Adirondack Chair

Cut 1-by-8s to a 32.75-inch length with a jigsaw to make the angled back legs of your Adirondack chair.

Line your saw up to the top right corner of one of the legs, as it faces you horizontally. Starting from the corner, cut off the edge of the wood at a 15-degree angle to make a slanted edge.

Cut the top 11/16 inch from the right-hand top corner at a 90-degree angle to make a short, sharp slant at this corner; this slant will meet the slanted edge you created in Step 2.

Cut 1 inch from the bottom left-hand corner at a 15 degree angle; this corner is directly diagonal from the corner you cut in Step 3.

Move up the left edge of the board, from the apex of the slanted corner you just cut, 2 inches. Mark the spot on the board with a pencil or marker.

Cut 12.5 inches from the top left section of the board at a 64-degree angle, creating a slanting edge. You will have a roughly tapering board with a triangle-like edge on the left side and a slightly angled right side.

Repeat Steps 2 through 6 with the second 1-by-8 board to create both supporting back legs of the Adirondack chair.

Cut the remaining pieces of wood, then sand and paint all wood before assembling your Adirondack chair. Once the chair is put together, it will be difficult to reach all the cracks and crevices with your sander and paintbrush.

Spread wood glue on the slightly slanted edges of the back legs -- the short ends which were cut with a long 15-degree angle -- and press the ends of a 21-inch 1-by-8, which is the chair apron, into them to create a U. The 21-inch piece of wood is the wide, flat bottom of the U; the slanted legs form the longer arms.

Drill 2-inch screws into the four corners of the apron to secure it to the legs of the chair.

Place the chair on your workspace in front of you so the flat, front edge of the apron faces you. The longest edges of the two legs will be flush against the ground or table where you are working.

Place one of the 21-inch 1-by-4s, which are the chair slats, on top of the legs so it meets the front edge of the apron at a 90-degree angle. Because of the slanted corners, you will notice this slat is slightly angled; this is what you want.

Screw the slat into position by drilling 2-inch screws into the corners.

Measure 1/2 inch of space from the back edge of the first chair slat and mark the spot.

Place the second slat on the mark, using a level to ensure you are placing it straight across the back legs, and screw it into position.

Repeat the last two steps with the remaining three chair slats. The fifth slat will end just before the long, steeply angled edge of the back legs. You have now created the seat of you Adirondack chair.

Measure 5 1/4 inches from the top of one of the 20.75-inch 1-by-4s, which are the front legs, moving vertically down the long side, and mark the spot. Repeat this with the second front leg.

Turn the seat so that the less-slanted back end is facing you, and place the front legs on either side. The front legs will be vertical, pointed up toward the ceiling or sky, the wide edges flush against the sides of the seat.

Lift the back end of the seat, as it sits between the two legs, until the top meets the marks you made on the legs previously. The back edge of the seat should be flush with the edges of the legs.

Drill through the front legs to secure the seat into position after you have ensured that everything is flushed and lined up evenly. When you are finished, the chair slats will fall away from the legs in a gradual slope and the back of the chair will be lifted off your work surface, supported by the legs.

Hold one of the 24-inch 1-by-3s, which are the arm supports, horizontally over the seat; it will be perpendicular to the chair slats. One long edge of the board should point down toward the slats; the wide, flat edge will be facing you.

Attach the arm supports directly to one of the front legs of the chair, wide side to wide side, creating a 90-degree angle. The short edge of the arm board should not be flush with the back edge of the leg board, but 3/4-inch away from it. Secure the arm support to the leg with 1-inch screws. Repeat the entire process with the second arm support and second leg.

Set the partially-completed chair aside and lay the 5, 30.5-inch 1-by-4s, which are the back slats, on your workspace.

Place each slat flush against your workspace, the wide sides flat against it, and line each up evenly so the edges create a level, even edge.

Space each slat exactly 1/2 inch apart so there are 1/2 inch gaps between each. Re-align the boards as needed to ensure they are completely even before proceeding.

Place the 19.5-inch 1-by-4, which is the apron back, horizontally across the five back slats, so the wide edge is flat against the row of slats. Line the bottom edge of the apron back up to the bottom edges of the slats so they create a wide, even edge together, and screw the apron back into place.

Measure 1.5 inches from the top edges of the back slats down, and mark the spot; this is where you will place the top back trim 1-by-3 that measures 19.5 inches long.

Place one flat side of the top back trim horizontally across the back slats and drill into place with 1-inch wood screws.

Measure 12.75 inches, moving up the back slats from the very bottom edge where the apron back ends and mark the spot.

Place the 22.5-inch 2-by-2, which is the back support, horizontally across the back slats at the mark you just made. Approximately 1.5 inches of each end of the back support will overhang the edges of the back slats. Drill the support into place with 1-inch screws to complete the back of your Adirondack chair.

Place the seat of the chair on your work space in its normal, upright position; the arm supports will be parallel to the surface of your work space. Holding the back of the chair vertically, so it is perpendicular to the seat, line up the edges of the long center back support with the back ends of the arm supports. The seat will rise up vertically from the slanted backside of the chair.

Secure the backrest into position by drilling through the ends of the arm supports into the 2-by-2 that serves as the back support with 2-inch screws. Screw through the back legs into the back apron of the chair to further secure the backrest. Your Adirondack chair should look nearly complete now, and at this point it is perfectly functional.

Place the two remaining pieces of wood -- the 25.5-inch 1-by-4s that serve as the arm rests -- on top of the arm supports. The wide sides of the arm rests will rest against the edges of the arm supports. The arm rests are long enough to overhang the supports by approximately 1/2 inch on either end.

Drill 1-inch screws through the arm rests into the arm supports to secure them to the chair and complete your project.