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Installing a Tiled Shower Stall

Tiling a shower stall requires precision and can be a bit painstaking, but it is not a job an enthusiastic "do-it-yourselfer" should shy away from. The key to a long-lasting tiling job in a shower stall is to start with a level and plumb substrate. If you are installing the substrate, such as the wall studs, yourself, you need to make sure everything is level. If not, make sure your contractors are doing their work well; otherwise, your tile job will not hold up over time.

Things You'll Need

  • Drop cloth
  • Masking tape
  • 1/4-inch furring strips
  • Hammer
  • Finishing nails
  • Waterproof membrane/roofing felt
  • Staple gun
  • Utility knife
  • Cement backerboard
  • Drill
  • Backerboard screws
  • Silicone caulk
  • Level
  • Chalk line
  • Thin-set
  • Notched trowel
  • Tiles
  • Tile spacers
  • Tile cutters
  • Protective eye wear
  • Grout
  • Grout float
  • Cloth
  • Tile and grout sealer
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Instructions

    • 1

      Secure the drop cloth over the shower pan with masking tape to protect it while tiling. Insert the furring strips between the flange of the shower pan and the wall, and tack them in place with finishing nails --- the furring strips will keep the backerboard on level on the shower pan. If you don't have a shower pan, then you can skip this part of the preparation and simply tile the floor as well.

    • 2

      Spread the waterproof membrane over the wall studs in the shower stall and staple it in place. Cut the membrane with a utility knife around drains, faucets and the shower head.

    • 3

      Resize the backerboard to fit into the shower recess --- use the utility knife to score along the cut lines, and then snap the backerboard upward to resize it. Cut the faucet and shower head holes in the backerboard. Screw the backerboard in place, leaving an 1/8-inch gap between boards, using backerboard screws and the drill.

    • 4

      Squeeze a line of silicone caulk into the backerboard joints. Smooth the joint over with a damp finger to ensure a watertight seal.

    • 5

      Snap a level chalk line one tile's height up the walls of the shower stall. Spread an 1/8-inch-thick layer of thin-set into one of the shower wall corners, enough for approximately six tiles. Furrow the thin-set with the notched trowel, and then set the tiles in place, spacing them with tile spacers. Continue laying thin-set and setting the tiles, working along the bottom of the walls first, and then moving upward.

    • 6

      Cut the tiles that need resizing with the tile cutters while wearing the protective eye wear. Spread tile on the backs of the cut tiles and set them in place. Leave them for 24 hours to let the mortar cure, and then take out the tile spacers.

    • 7

      Hold the grout float at a 45-degree angle and spread grout into the tile joints. Work the grout into all the joints, save those around plumbing fixtures and between the wall and the floor or shower pan. Wipe off the extra grout with a sponge. Wait 30 minutes, and then wipe the remaining grout haze from the tiles. Apply silicone caulk to the joints left ungrouted. Leave for 72 hours.

    • 8

      Apply the tile and grout sealer, following the manufacturer's instructions. A shower stall should have three coats of sealer to ensure it is watertight.