Lay out four threaded galvanized steel pipes (two 54-inch-long, 2-inch-diameter pipes and two 75-inch-long pipes) to make a rectangle on the ground. Place schedule 40 galvanized steel, side-outlet elbow fittings with female threads at each corner of the rectangle so two of the openings in each fitting form a corner of the rectangle and the third points straight up. Screw the ends of the pipes into the fittings. This is the bottom of the bed frame.
Screw a 24-inch-long pipe into each of the openings in the fittings at the corners of the frame. Screw a four-way tee fitting on top of each pipe so one opening in each fitting sticks straight up and the other two openings match the angles on the horizontal fittings on the bottom of the frame. Add 54-inch and 75-inch pipes between these fittings to form the supports for the mattress platform.
Install a 55-inch-long pipe into the openings in the fittings at the corners of the frame. Screw a 90-degree, side-outlet elbow fitting on top of each of these pipes so the other two openings in the fittings match the angles on the horizontal fittings on the rest of the frame. Add 54-inch and 75-inch pipes between these fittings to form the canopy frame.
Cut a 58-by-79-inch rectangle of medium density fiberboard (MDF). This will be the platform for the mattress.
Draw a 3-inch square on each corner of the MDF rectangle. Cut along the inside edges of the squares with a jigsaw to notch the corners to allow space for the pipes that support the canopy. Place the platform on the frame.
Use metal shower curtain rings to hang heavy, elaborate curtains on the frame. You can hang curtains on all sides of the bed or just at the head.