DIY Picket Fence Headboard & Footboard

Cut each of the two by four's exactly in half to create eight 4-foot pieces. The actual finished height will be slightly air less than 4 feet to account for the width of the saw kerf, but for all practical purposes that 1/16th inch or so is not that critical.

Glue the two by four's up in pairs and clamp them up to create four four by four roughly square posts. Since 2 by 4 dimensional lumber is actually 1 1/2 by 3 1/2 inches, the post you create is not perfectly square.

Trim 1/8 inch off either side of the 3-inch wide sides of the posts and 3/8 inch off either side of the 3 1/2-inch wide sides so that the final result is four perfectly square 2 3/4- by 2 3/4-inch posts.

Cut each fence panel down to 5 feet long (60 inches).

Lay one of the fence sections face down on a large flat surface so that the stringers are facing up. Place a post on either side of the fence section and position the posts so that the bottom edge of each post is exactly 6 inches from the bottom stringer of the fence panel.

Trace the shapes of the ends of each stringer onto the face of each post. These will be chiseled out to form the mortises into which the ends of stringers, which will serve as the tenons, will be inserted.

Repeat the process for the other fence section and remaining two posts.

Rout and/or chisel out the mortises cutting them up to, but not over the lines traced on the face of each post.

Coat 2 1./2 inches of the end of each stringer liberally with wood glue and insert the stringers into the mortises in the posts. Snug the joints up as tightly as possible.

Drill two 5/8-inch holes through each post front to back so that each hole bisects the stringer tenons.

Cut the dowel in 2 3/4-inch lengths, coat liberally with wood glue and place them in the holes. These pegs will ensure that the tenons do not move or pull away.

Sand the finished headboard and footboard smooth and finish as desired with paint or stain.