DIY High Bed Frame

Saw 15 lumber boards that are 1 by 3 by 96 inches into eight 71-inch long legs, two 46 1/2-inch long back filler pieces, six 2-inch long back filler pieces, two 56-inch long front filler pieces, two 7 1/2-inch long front filler pieces and two 40 1/2-inch long end and top pieces. For the ladder, cut two 65 3/4-inch long ladder side rails, 10 spacers that are 10 3/8 inches long, five 12 1/2-inch long treads and two 10-inch long top spacers.

Cut four 1-by-8-by-120-inch lumber boards into four 37 1/2-inch long end planks and three 80-inch long front and back rails.

Divide three 1-by-4-by-96-inch long lumber boards into two 37 1/2-inch long top planks, one 80-inch long top back rail, one 61-inch long guardrail, three 15-inch long upright rail pieces and six 2-inch filler pieces.

Saw one 2-by-4-by-96-inch long lumber plank into one center support rail that measures 76 3/4 inches long.

Cut 11 lumbers boards that are 1 by 2 by 96 inches long into one 80-inch long top back piece, two 75-inch long cleats, 14 slats that are 39 inches long and one 61-inch long top rail.

Cut one 4-by-8-foot, 3/4-inch thick piece of plywood into a sheet that measures 76 1/2 inches long by 39 inches wide.

Stand up two of the 1-by-3-by-71-inch legs, and screw one of the 37 1/2-inch end planks between them, 2 inches from the bottom. Screw one of the 1-by-4-by-37 1/2-inch top planks 2 inches from the top of the two leg. Two inches below the top plank, screw into place a 1-by-8-by-37 1/2-inch plank. Leave 7/8 inch of space on the legs on both sides of the boards. Repeat this step for two more 1-by-3-by-71-inch legs. These items form the end pieces.

Screw the first of the three 80-inch rails into the end pieces, making them perpendicular to the end pieces and with flush edges. Make the bottom planks of the end pieces even with the back rail. Screw the 1-by-3-by-80-inch back rail 2 inches from the top of the end pieces, between them as you did with the bottom rail. Secure the last two 1-by-8-by-80-inch rails into the end pieces, placing them on the front and the back at the level of the top end planks.

Attach the 1-by-3-by-2-inch filler pieces to fill the 2-inch gaps on the back side between the floor and the bottom rail, between the two top rails and between the top rail and the top of the bed. Fill the space between the bottom and top rails with the 1-by-3-by-46 1/2-inch back fillers.

Screw the 56-inch long front filler pieces into the space between the top front rail and the floor. Place the 7 1/2-inch filler pieces between the top rail and the top of the bed.

Glue and screw the remaining 71-inch long legs to the faces of each side of the bed to hide the seams between the rails and the filler pieces. Use wood glue.

Affix the 1-by-2-by-80-inch back piece to the back of the bed, atop the legs, by using wood glue. Make the back piece flush with other elements. Glue the 40 1/2 inch end and top pieces atop the other end pieces, flush with the 80-inch back piece.

Push into place the 75-inch cleats between the legs on the front and back of the bed so that they’re flush. Secure them with wood glue and screws. Use wood glue and screws to secure the 2-by-4-inch center support exactly in the center of the bed frame.

Lay the slats across the cleats and center support, with about 4 inches between each of them. Nail them into the center support and cleats with 2-inch long nails. Lay the plywood over them, leaving it loose for future maintenance.

Assemble the side rail for the front of the bed by gluing the 61-inch long guardrail across the three 15-inch upright rails. Place it 2 inches from the top and flush with the edges of the outer two rails.

Fill the space between the top of the guardrail and the top of the uprights with the 1-by-4-by-2-inch filler pieces. Secure the remaining three rail filler pieces below the guardrail.

Glue the 1-by-2-by-61-inch top rail into place across the three uprights. Make it flush with the edges on all sides.

Fit the guardrail assembly you created into position on the front of the bed. Position it flush with one of the edges, leaving a space on the opposite end. Screw it into place from the inside.

Cut the top of the ladder side rails and top spacers off square at a 75-degree angle and the bottom at a 15-degree angle so that the ladder can rest flat. Cut the 10 3/8-inch spacers at a 15-degree angle to fit between the treads.

Attach the two side rails to the first set of spacers on the bottom so that the spacers and the side rail are flush. Glue them into place, and secure them with screws. Glue the first ladder tread atop the spacers. Repeat through the fifth and final tread-spacer coupling. Finally, glue and screw into position the 10 3/8-inch top spacers atop the last ladder tread so that it is flush with the ladder’s edges, ensuring that the cut lines align.

Fit the ladder into position between the gap made by the front guardrail assembly. Glue it into place using wood glue. From the inside of the bed, place screws through the ladder to hold it into position.