Wood Wall Framing Techniques

Studs

• The wood for studs may be either 2-by-4s or 2-by-6s. Although 2-by-4s have been the dominant stud dimension in wood construction, 2-by-6s are starting to see an increase in use. The larger lumber has greater strength and can be spaced farther apart than smaller studs. You can space 2-by-6s 24 inches apart on-center, or from the middle of one stud to the middle of the next one, while 2-by-4s need a placement of 16 inches on-center.

Marking

• Marking the bottom and top plates, the pieces of lumber that hold the studs, ensures that you have proper spacing for the studs in the completed wall. The studs closest to the end of the plates should be marked 3/4 inch less than the standard spacing. For instance, if the stud spacing for the wall is 24 inches, you mark the studs next to the corners 23 1/4 inches from the end of the plate. The rest of the studs remain 24 inches apart.

Rough Opening

• Rough opening refers to the spaces in the framing where you place windows or doors. Making the opening 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch wider than the window or door unit leaves you room to make any necessary adjustments to ensure the window or door is level or plumb. All nails going through window or doorjambs should also go through trimmer studs, the framing members that run from the bottom of the wall to the header. A nail that penetrates only a shim, a small piece of wood used to fill a gap in the framing, weakens the connection.

Sheathing

• The sheathing, typically plywood, fits on the frame either horizontally or vertically. Applying it horizontally works best in most situations, according to the book "Ultimate Guide To House Framing." The easiest method of dealing with the rough openings is to apply the sheathing directly over them and cut out the plywood with a saw later. Leaving a 1/8-inch gap where the long edges of the horizontal sheathing panels meet and a 1/16-inch gap where panel ends join provides space for the material to expand and contract.