Options for Taking out a Load-Bearing Wall

Is It a Load-Bearing Wall?

• Before removing any wall, determine whether it is a load-bearing wall. Load bearing walls typically run perpendicular to girders and joists in the crawl space, basement or attic. Additionally, all exterior walls in the house are load-bearing walls. If you have trouble determining whether a wall is load-bearing or not, assume it is load-bearing and take the necessary precautions, or hire a general contractor to make the determination for you.

Temporary Walls

• Erect temporary walls before removing a load-bearing wall to help redistribute the load during the removal process. Build the temporary walls on each side of the load-bearing wall, leaving approximately three feet between the load-bearing wall and temporary walls to give you enough room to work. A temporary wall consists of a top plate and bottom plate made from 2-by-10s nailed into the ceiling and floor with 2-by-4s evenly spaced in between.

Beams

• The location of the load-bearing wall will determine the type of beam you use when replacing the wall. If the load-bearing wall is on the lower-level of a two-story home you will need a flush beam that does not extend into the living space on the second story. Often the beam will hang down into the open space to provide support; you may add a decorative header. If the load-bearing wall offers attic space directly above it, you may choose a raised beam that sticks up into the attic instead of the room below.

Columns

• Especially for load-bearing walls that hold a significant amount of weight, you may need added support. Adding decorative columns to the beam used to replace the load-bearing wall helps provide additional structural support. Columns also keep you from having to install a header or beam that hangs from the ceiling and reduces the height of the ceiling. If you want to open up a space but still have some division, columns make the best option.