How to Frame a Non-Bearing Wall

Non-loadbearing walls divide the interior space of a house into rooms. Unless they conceal electrical wire, plumbing pipes or HVAC duct, they can be removed with no impact on the structural integrity of the house. When framing a non-loadbearing wall -- or any wall -- it's best to plan and measure your layout before you begin nailing wood together. And although you can complete the job working alone, a helper is always good to have around.

Chalk line
Tape measure
Carpenter's pencil
Nail gun
16d framing nails
2-by-4 studs

Instructions

- 1
  Determine the location of the wall and snap a chalk line on the floor. Lay a stud on the line to begin the layout process. This stud is your sill plate and will sit at the bottom of the wall. Use pressure-treated lumber for your sill if it will touch concrete or is within 6 inches of soil. Non-treated wood absorbs water and will rot over time.
- 2
  Measure and mark the sill plate at 16-inch intervals beginning from the end. Local building codes require that wall studs be spaced no further than 16 inches apart.
- 3
  Lay a wall stud perpendicular to the sill at each mark. Lay another stud -- parallel to the sill -- at the other end of the wall studs, opposite the sill. This stud is the top plate of the wall.
- 4
  Press the wall stud against the sill plate. Drive two nails at 45-degree angles into each wall stud to connect the studs to the sill at each 16-inch mark. Add two more nails on the other side of the wall stud for additional support.
- 5
  Toenail the wall studs to the top plate to complete the non-loadbearing wall.

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