Measure the studs. Metal studs have knockout holes for electrical wiring and plumbing pipes. Make sure the holes are the appropriate height and in line for wiring or pipes. Allow an extra 1½ inches for the height and an extra 3 inches for the width of doors to accommodate 2-by-4-inch boards used for framing.
Use straight-aviation snips to cut both side flanges of the studs. Bend one flange up and cut across the closed side, called the web. Use a sawhorse when you cut. If you’re cutting dozens of studs, use a circular saw. Cut your studs to the exact height. Gaps larger than 1/16 inch transfer the weight from the studs onto the screws.
Insert plastic grommets into the holes for electrical wires to protect them from cuts and nicks from the metal.
Measure the track placement on the concrete, and snap chalk lines to mark those measurements.
Lay tracks into position on the chalk lines. Use a hammer drill with a masonry bit to drill screw holes through the metal and into the concrete. Drill holes as deep as the length of the screw. Set them 3 feet apart, with one screw at each end of the track.
Overlap straight runs of tracks by 6 inches. Notch a flange on the corners so the overlapping track can slide into place.
Secure the tracks to the concrete with hex-head concrete screws.
Use a plumb bob or a level placed against a stud to position the ceiling track. If the track runs perpendicular to the joists of a finished ceiling, secure it to the joists with 1 1/2-inch self-tapping drywall screws. If the track runs parallel to the joists, fasten it with drywall anchors.
Slide the metal studs into the floor track either 12, 16 or 24 inches apart, depending on local building codes, and secure them with pan-head screws.
Fasten the studs to the ceiling track with pan-head screws.