How to Build a Circular Sheetrock Wall & Attach It to the Ceiling

Creating the Curves

• 1

  Snap a chalk line to indicate the baseline for the curved wall, in the location desired; generally the baseline shows where the curve will begin and end again, creating a half circle of 180 degrees. This plane may well stretch between the ends of and connecting two adjacent walls diagonally. Measure the distance from the baseline to any point on the outside of the curve. This is the radius length.

• 2

  Find the exact center of the baseline. Drill a hole and attach a strip of plywood, lumber or any rigid material to serve as a compass. Cut the compass material to a couple of inches past the radius length required. The make-shift compass extends outward from the baseline, in the middle of the circle, swinging around in a perfect arc. Use a bolt or nail to tack the compass to the floor.

• 3

  Drill or create another hole at the opposite end of the compass. Position it precisely at the exact radius measurement -- again, the place where the wall will sit, as determined by baseline and the length of the radius. Enlarge the hole sufficiently to fit a marker or pencil inside snugly. If the hole is slightly loose, wrap tape around the instrument.

• 4

  Swing the compass in an arc. Hold the marker or pencil in place as it marks. Begin and end at the ends of the baseline. The curve created shows where the wall sits.

• 5

  Divide the wall curve into equal-length sections if the wall radius is greater than 4 feet. If the baseline length is longer than 4 feet, the wall length is greater than 8 feet, or the length of a standard 4-by-8-foot sheet of plywood. The wall plates, which form the top and bottom of a stud wall, are formed from plywood. Therefore, in some cases sections of plates, two or more, are used.

• 6

  Measure and mark the center of a sheet of 3/4-inch plywood. Use the baseline center point, as you did with the floor, to swing the compass around and mark the plywood. If the baseline length is greater than 4 feet, extend the compass away from the plywood, attach, and create short sections of curves.

• 7

  Shorten the compass length by either reattaching it 3 1/2 inches farther away or drilling a new marker or pencil hole. Scribe the curve again, making a second line parallel to the first. Repeat for each wall plate section needed. Since square stud walls use 2-by-4-inch lumber to form the plates, and the actual measurement of a 2-by-4 is 3 1/2 inches wide and 1 1/2 inches thick, the plywood plates are also 3 1/2 inches wide.

• 8

  Cut out each plate section with a jigsaw. Set the pieces in place along the wall guidelines created earlier to ensure the pieces are accurate, both in curve and length. Trace around each of these plates, if more than one, onto another sheet of plywood, three times per piece. This provides four complete plates. Since a 2-by-4-inch plate is 1 1/2 inches thick, the wall needs two layers of 3/4-inch plywood per plate at top and bottom.

Fitting the Wall to the Curve

• 9

  Lay the first layer of plates over the wall curve marked on the floor. Starting at the center, spread a layer of epoxy or glue across the surface of a plate and bond it to two of the plates on the bottom row. Repeat down the length of the plate until you come to the last plate. Since you are staggering the plates, there will be half a plate on either side of the bottom row. Staggering the plate pieces helps create strength. Reinforce with short finishing nails if desired. Repeat with the top plate sections.

• 10

  Measure the length of each plate, marking the stud spacing every 8 inches on center. Turn the square with each mark to allow the stud to turn with the curve of the wall; the studs will be square to the plate, not each other. Mark the first stud's outside edge at 1 1/2 inches and each stud thereafter at 7 1/4, 15 1/4 and progressing. Note the last stud is at 1 1/2 inch from the wall plate end, regardless of closeness.

• 11

  Find the wall height needed. Measure from ceiling to floor. Subtract 3 inches, which is the thickness of the plates combined, and another 1/4 inch for clearance. Cut one stud per stud mark on the bottom plate.

• 12

  Rest each plate section with the opening of the "U" face up. Starting in the middle and working outward, attach one stud per stud mark to the bottom plate. Use 16d nails and nail through the plate into the end of the stud. Ensure the stud runs width-wise across the plate and turns with the plate curvature. Attach the top plate to the free ends of the studs similarly.

• 13

  Walk the wall erect with the assistance of a helper. Ensure it is precisely aligned with the floor markings. Hold a level against the side to check for plumb -- straight up and down -- before shoving wood shims under the bottom plate to eliminate the 1/4-inch clearance. Check plumb again.

• 14

  Anchor the bottom plate to the floor with either 16d nails, driven through the subfloor into the floor joist, or with concrete anchors if the floor is concrete. Drive additional nails through the top plate into the ceiling joists wherever present. Use two nails at a time, staggering them slightly to avoid splitting wood. You can also spread adhesive across the top plate for extra reinforcement before erecting and securing the wall.

• 15

  Nail metal tie plates or brackets, following the manufacturer's instructions, to both the circular wall and adjoining or adjacent walls. This helps create a sturdy connection.

• 16

  Spray the paper facing on the back of 1/8-inch or 3/8-inch drywall with water, saturating it enough to encourage it to bend easily. Hold the drywall, horizontally, aligned flush with the wall edge. Drive drywall screws through the drywall, into each stud, every 6 inches vertically as well as around the entire perimeter. Insulate the wall if preferred and install drywall on the other side of the wall similarly. Mud each joint with joint compound, cover with tape and additional layers of compound, sanding between each. Treat the screw holes the same. Paint and trim the wall as desired.