How to Frame a Basement With Wood

Preparation

• You must obtain a permit from your local building department before embarking on a major home improvement project, such as framing a basement. Decide on the layout you want and draw up a plan or consult with an architect on the best use of the space and have her produce a set of plans for you. Some departments may require you to install certain features, such as an extra-large window, for safety reasons. Ensure that no moisture leaks into the basement, as this could require expensive renovation to fix once you finish the framing and remodeling.

Main Walls

• Installing rigid fiberglass insulation panels along the perimeter of the concrete wall between the joist and the floor ensure that the finished space will stay warm and cozy. Nail the top plate and the bottom plate 2-by-4s into position about one-half inch away from the insulation. Drilling holes into the concrete wall and using screws to fasten both plates provides a strong connection. Cutting the individual studs to length, nailing into place between the two plates and spacing these 16 inches apart gives best results. Using pressure-treated wood whenever a board comes in contact with the concrete helps prevent decay. Using a level and chalk lines helps keep the framing plumb.

Partition Walls

• You can frame partition walls, non-load bearing walls that do not abut the foundation walls, on the floor and put these up as a single unit. Laying the bottom plate on the floor and marking the position on each side of the board prevents you from setting the plate on the wrong side of the mark when you put up the assembled wall. Measure the distance between the plates and cut the studs to length. If you need to include a door opening, leave a space of 2 1/2 inches higher and wider than the door you will install, advises “The Family Handyman.” To assemble the wall, you can simply lay out all of the pieces on the floor and nail these together with 16d nails for pieces at right angles to each other and 10d nails for face to face pieces.

Grate

• Certain features, such as plumbing pipes, often run under the joists; you do not want to restrict access to these when you drywall the ceiling. A good option involves putting in wooden 2-by-2 pieces between the joists at these points and cutting out an opening after you put up the ceiling drywall. You can then install a removable grate over the opening. If you need a large number of access grates, you may want to consider a ceiling with removable panels rather than drywall.