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What to Do with an Outlet When Paneling?

Paneling raises the profile of the wall, which may require you to raise the electrical outlet and light switch receptacles accordingly. The National Electric Code requires that the distance from the front edge of the gang box -- which is the rectangular, metal or plastic box that houses the outlet or receptacle -- to the face of the wall be no more than 1/4 inch. If the paneling is 1/4 inch thick or less, adjustments may not be necessary.
  1. Shut Off the Electricity

    • You must remove the receptacle face plate to install paneling and change the depth of an outlet. Removing the face plate exposes you to live wiring. Flip the breaker to the off position or remove the fuse that powers the outlet’s circuit before removing the face plate. Relying solely on the breaker or fuse label is risky, so test the receptacle with an electrical voltage tester before touching it. Voltage testers usually signal you with lights or sounds when electricity is detected. Operation differs by manufacturer, so read the instructions. Install the tester’s batteries and turn it on to prevent a false negative reading. Place the nib or tip of the tester on or into the outlet, whichever the manufacturer requires, and check the outlet for power. If the tester shows no electricity, the breaker or fuse disconnected the circuit. It is safe to remove the screw that secures the face plate to the receptacle. Do not remove the face plate until the tester confirms that the outlet is dead. If electricity is still detected, check different breakers or fuses until you find the correct one for that circuit. Plugging in a lamp or other electrical device is an unreliable way to check for electricity. After removing the face plate, check the receptacle again, touching the voltage tester to the wires inside the gang box.

    Measure the Paneling

    • With the face plate removed, you can cut an opening in the paneling to fit around the outlet. Measure across the wall from the last full sheet of paneling to the edge of the gang box. Measure from the floor to the bottom edge of the gang box. Apply those measurements to a new sheet of paneling with a pencil. If you have a spare gang box, align it with the marks on the paneling as a template for a perfect cut. If not, you can use the face plate as a rough template. Align the box or face plate with the pencil marks on the paneling. Trace the outline of the box on the paneling, or lightly trace the outline of the face plate. Cut around the outline of the box using a rotary tool with an all-purpose cutting bit. If you used the face plate as a template, draw a second outline approximately 1/8 inch inside the first outline, and cut around it with the rotary tool. Hang the paneling with the outlet opening centered over the gang box.

    Adjust the Receptacle

    • If the difference between the front of the box and the paneling is less than 1/4 inch, you can raise the receptacle slightly without adding a spacer. Each receptacle has one screw at the top and another at the bottom that fasten the receptacle to the box and adjust its depth. Twist the screws counterclockwise until the receptacle is raised slightly, but is not loose. A loose receptacle is dangerous, and it can lead to loose or broken wires over time. If the receptacle moves when you push on it, it is loose and unsafe.

    Add a Spacer Ring

    • Gang box spacer rings fit into the front edge of the box, increasing its depth and allowing you to safely raise the receptacle more than 1/4 inch. With the circuit’s power off and the new paneling in place, loosen the top and bottom receptacle screws to free it from the gang box. Pull the receptacle toward you, but leave the wires connected. Slip the spacer around the receptacle, and push the back edge into the front edge of the gang box until the spacer is flush with the paneling. Install the receptacle into the spacer the same way it was fastened in the original box, using the top and bottom screws on the receptacle.