How to Hang Drywall Vertically or Horizontally

Hanging Drywall Horizontally

• 1

  Turn off the electricity coming to the room you are drywalling in, if possible. Remove the cover plates for all light switches and electrical outlets. This ensures that neither you nor anyone else accidentally gets shocked while working

• 2

  Mark the ceiling lightly with a pencil to provide a visual guide to the placement of the framing studs beneath. Alternatively, snap a chalk line every 16 or 24 inches across each sheet of drywall you hang -- depending on the spacing of your studs -- to clearly mark the attachment guide.

• 3

  Lift a sheet of drywall into place in the top corner of a wall. Allow the drywall to span several studs for horizontal placement. Push it in place against the ceiling firmly without forcing it. Ensure that this sheet, and every sheet following, ends in the middle of a stud to allow for a solid area for attaching each successive sheet of drywall.

• 4

  Holding the drywall in place securely, drive either screws or nails -- screws are preferable since they do not grow loose over time -- through the drywall sheet into the studs beneath. Begin in the center of the sheet, securing every 6 to 8 inches along the length of each stud, and work outward across studs. Drive the screws or nails slightly beneath the drywall surface.

• 5

  Work across the length of the wall, hanging the top row first before securing the lower course of drywall. Push each sheet snugly against the next, both at the top and along the sides. Stagger the sheet ends when possible, even if you must cut the beginning sheet a little shorter, to avoid aligning all seams.

• 6

  Measure the placement of light switches and electrical outlets and transfer to the drywall as a cut guide. Alternatively, rub chalk around the edges of the box and lift the drywall into place, over the box. Press firmly to transfer the chalk to the drywall, then lower the drywall again. For windows or doors, measure and cut to end the sheet on the edge of the opening.

• 7

  Cut the drywall as necessary to compensate for the length or width needed or to accommodate openings. Measure and mark the drywall and use a straightedge to draw a cut line. Score through the paper, into the drywall material, with a utility knife. Bend the piece up or down to snap the cut section loose. Alternatively, use a drywall saw for cutouts.

• 8

  Nail a metal corner strip over any outside corners or edges, securing every 4 to 5 inches. Use flexible corner tape instead, if preferred, during the finishing process.

Hanging Drywall Vertically

• 9

  Mark the ceiling lightly to create a stud placement guide for drywall attachment, or snap a chalk line down the length of the drywall to ensure you nail or screw the drywall appropriately.

• 10

  Measure along the wall, from floor to ceiling, in several locations. Take the shortest measurement and subtract 1/2 inch to allow for clearance above the floor. This is the length of each full-length drywall sheet needed.

• 11

  Cut each sheet of drywall, if necessary, to fit between the ceiling and floor. Measure along the drywall to mark the height needed in two or three spots. Use a straightedge to connect the marks and a utility knife to score through the paper and drywall. Snap the cut free to complete.

• 12

  Lift the drywall into place, beginning in the corner of a room. Check to ensure that this sheet, and every successive sheet, ends in the middle of a stud. Starting at the top of the drywall, secure the drywall to each stud, placing nails or screws every 6 to 8 inches.

• 13

  Measure and mark the placement of each wall outlet or light switch. Cut with a utility knife or drywall saw. Or, rub chalk along the edges of the box and press the drywall against the box to mark.

• 14

  Frame windows or doors with drywall by cutting the sheet at the edge of the opening. Begin with a new sheet on the other side of the opening. Cut small sheets for above or below as appropriate.

• 15

  Cover the outside corners and edges with a metal corner strip, nailed every 4 or 5 inches. Alternatively, use flexible edge tape during the finishing process.

Finishing the Drywall

• 16

  Spread a thin layer of drywall compound over each seam and nail or screw head. Include the outside edges or corners if metal flashing was not used earlier. If during this process your drywall knife emits a clinking sound, indicating it hits a nail or screw head, take the time to sink the head deeper before continuing.

• 17

  Wet a strip of drywall tape, cut to the size required for the seam or head, and spread over the compound. Embed the tape by running the blade over the tape, which also forces any air out from underneath.

• 18

  Apply an additional layer of compound once the tape dries in place. Use a thin layer, spreading it slightly past the tape edges to begin blending it flush with the wall surface. Allow this layer to dry before sanding it smooth with the surrounding drywall.

• 19

  Continue buttering the seams and heads with further layers of compound, feathering the edges farther out each time, drying and sanding between coats. At least two coats are necessary; when completed, the seam or head beneath is entirely concealed and the compound is flush with the wall.

• 20

  Finish with a coat of primer and a layer or two of paint. Trim the wall to complete.