Drywall, which contains compressed gypsum particles, is not strong enough to support the weight of slatwall, so you must attach the panels to the wall studs beneath the drywall. Measure carefully where you want to install the panels, and use a chalk line and a level to ensure that the slatwall will be even. Use a screwgun to insert screws that are one inch longer than the combined thickness of the slatwall and the drywall. For instance, if the slatwall is 1/2-inch thick and the drywall is 1/2-inch thick, use 2-inch screws, inserted eight inches apart into the studs.
Slatwall installs as easily on a bare stud wall as it does over drywall. If you’re installing the panels in an unfinished garage or workshop, you can position the panels over the studs and insert screws that are one inch longer than the slatwall is thick. For 1/2-inch slatwall, use 1-1/2-inch screws, inserted every eight inches into the wall studs.
To install slatwall on masonry surfaces, such as cinderblock, brick, stucco or concrete walls, you’ll have to install furring strips first. The strips must be substantial enough to support the weight of the slatwall and the shelving. One-by-four boards, installed vertically and spaced 16 inches apart, are sufficient for holding slatwall. Use concrete screws to hold the furring strips in place, inserting a concrete screw every 16 inches into the masonry. After the furring strips are up, install the slatwall panels in the same manner you would for a stud wall.
When inserting screws into slatwall grooves, center the screw in the middle of a groove and avoid touching the edges of the groove with the screwgun bit. You’ll have to countersink the screwheads just slightly to allow the shelving brackets to slide easily through the grooves. When cutting slatwall panels with a circular saw, make a chalk line on the back of the panel and cut the panel from the backside. This reduces groove chipping that can occur if you cut the panel on the front side.