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How to Make Recessed-Panel Wainscoting

Recessed panel wainscoting adds character to a room, but it often comes with a high price tag. You can duplicate the look at a fraction of the cost by building the framework and allowing the existing wall to serve as recessed panels. After paint is applied, the look is almost indistinguishable from the costlier alternative. Once the basic recessed panel wainscoting is installed, add as many layers and rows of decorative molding around the panels as you like to add more dimension, or leave it plain for a simple, farmhouse look.

Things You'll Need

  • Hammer
  • Pencil
  • 4-foot level
  • 1-inch-by-4-inch dimensional lumber
  • Circular or miter saw
  • Fine-grit sandpaper
  • Construction adhesive
  • 2-inch finishing nails
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Instructions

    • 1

      Tap the walls around the wall lightly with a hammer to locate the studs. Alternatively, use an electronic stud finder and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Mark the wall with a pencil each time you find a stud.

    • 2

      Measure up the wall from the top of the baseboard to the height where the wainscoting should stop. You can follow traditional guidelines, such as stopping it at the bottom or top of the windows, or use the height that is more common in modern houses, which is approximately 36 inches from the floor. Mark the height on the wall with a pencil.

    • 3

      Set a 4-foot level horizontally on the wall at the mark, and trace its edge lightly with a pencil. Extend the level line across the wall by moving the level and tracing its edge.

    • 4

      Measure the width of a 1-inch-by-4-inch board. Contrary to the name, a 1-by-4 is rarely 4 inches wide.

    • 5

      Measure down from the first level pencil line on the wall to the width of the 1-by-4. Make a second level line under the first at this height.

    • 6

      Measure from the top of the baseboard to the bottom level line. Measure and mark a 1-by-4 to this length, and cut it straight across with a circular saw, or use a miter saw set at the center or zero degrees. Mark and cut one 1-by-4 for each stud across the wall.

    • 7

      Sand the ends of the boards by hand with fine sandpaper to remove splintering.

    • 8

      Apply a line or bead of construction adhesive along the back side of a cut board. Press the board against the wall at a stud with its width centered over the stud location mark. Place the level vertically against the side of the board and make adjustments until the bubble is centered and the board is plumb, or vertically straight.

    • 9

      Drive 2-inch finishing nails through the center of board and into the stud, spacing the nails approximately 6 inches apart from top to bottom. Fasten one board to each stud across the wall.

    • 10

      Apply construction adhesive along the back of a full-length 1-by-4. Place the board horizontally across the top of the vertical boards. Fasten the board to the wall with finishing nails, and continue across the wall to complete the horizontal trim. If a full board will not fit at the end of the row, measure the space from the end of the last board to the end of the wall and cut a board to fit that space.