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How to Build a Wall Around Basement Windows

The framing for walls in a finished basement are the same as regular partition walls in the upper floors. The walls don't support weight and standard two-by-four framing with studs is the most common type of frame. The wall built around existing windows holds the drywall or wood extension jamb that butts against the window and attaches to the wood frame. The extension jamb completes the transition from the window's frame to the surface of the surrounding wall.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • Two-by-four lumber
  • Saw
  • Hammer
  • 12d framing nails
  • 4-foot level
  • Power nailer
  • Green power nail charges
  • 2 1/2 inch power nails
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure from the corner to the nearest edge of the concrete window opening. Lay two, two-by-four pieces on edge on the floor and parallel with the ends flush to use as top and sole plates. Transfer the distance measurement to both two-by-fours and mark the top edges with a line. Place an "X" on the corner side of the lines.

    • 2

      Measure from the corner to the opposite side of the window opening. Transfer this measurement to both two-by-four plates and mark them with a line on the top edge. Mark an "X" on the side of the line furthest from the corner. Place additional marks every 16 inches beginning at the corner end of the plates all the way to the opposite end.

    • 3

      Measure the height of the wall from the floor to each ceiling joist and subtract 3.25 inches to determine the length of the studs. Measure, mark and cut a stud for each mark that does not fall between the two marks for the window opening on the wall plates.

    • 4

      Place a stud on edge at each end between the wall plates, flush with the ends. Add two studs at the window opening marks centered over the "X." Put additional studs at each mark not between the two window opening marks. The additional studs align on the side of the marks furthest away from the corner. Nail the studs to the top and bottom plates with two nails through each plate into each stud.

    • 5

      Measure from the floor to the bottom of the window opening and subtract 1.5 inches. Measure, mark and cut a two-by-four cripple stud to length for each mark on the plates within the window opening, and two more for each side of it. Repeat this step for the top of the window opening.

    • 6

      Place one cripple stud inside the wall frame window opening against the full length stud on each side of the opening at the top and the bottom of the wall frame. Nail the cripples to the full length studs with two nails every 16 inches.

    • 7

      Measure the distance between the two full length studs on either side of the window opening. Cut two, two-by-fours to the measured length for the rough sill and header. Place the sill and header between the studs and butted against the cripple studs. Nail the sill and header to the full length studs with two nails through each stud into the ends of the sill and header.

    • 8

      Place the remaining cripple studs between the sill and sole plate, and between the header and top plate aligned with the marks on the plates. Nail the cripples to the wall plates, the sill and the header with two nails at each end of each cripple.

    • 9

      Stand the wall frame up and butt it against the corner. Align the window opening in the frame with the window opening in the concrete wall. Place a level against the studs, center the bubble and nail the wall frame to the ceiling joists with two nails placed into each joist, or placed every 16 to 20 inches where the ceiling joists are parallel to the wall.

    • 10

      Load the power nailer with a green charge and a power nail. Recheck the wall frame for plumb with the level, and to ensure it is properly aligned with the window opening. Place the power nailer against the sole plate centered between two studs and the edges, push down to depress the safety and pull the trigger. Repeat for each space between studs.