How to Build Fake Walls for a Mobile Home

Measure out from an existing wall to identify the approximate location of your new wall. If you are concealing pipes or other structures or installing a home theater, for instance, make sure you have the clearance desired. To create another room, decide on the dimensions. Mark the floor and wall to indicate.

Find the nearest stud, in the adjoining wall or walls, corresponding to your desired fake wall location. Tap the wall to identify where it sounds and feels solid, in contrast to a spongy, hollow look and sound. Mark the studs clearly. You will need to anchor your fake wall to these studs.

Mark a straight, plumb line down the stud to guide your placement of the wall. Repeat on the opposite wall if the fake wall will meet a wall on either side.

Find the height of the room and the width of the wall required. Subtract 3 inches from the room height and record the dimensions. A 2-by-4-inch board is actually 1 1/2 inches thick. A stud wall uses one for the top plate and one for the lower, with studs running vertically between.

Cut two 2-by-4 boards to the wall width required. These are your top and bottom plates.

Line the plates up so the ends are flush. Measure over three inches from the end of the plates. Lay a square across the boards and mark a line through both at once. Continue across the length, marking the boards every 16 inches until the end, leaving an opening for a door or other structure if necessary. Mark another three-inch interval at the end of the plates. The 3 inches at the ends indicate double studs, with another stud for every 16 inch mark.

Place an additional stud mark to frame any opening required. A home theater needs holes for the television and speakers, for example, and a door needs sufficient clearance between studs.

Count the number of studs required and cut the necessary number from additional 2-by-4 boards. Make the boards the height of the room minus 3 inches to allow for the plate thickness.

Turn the plates on edge with the widest portion of the board running parallel to each other. Line up a stud, laid on edge, with the beginning edges of first the top plate, then the bottom. Nail through the plate into the stud ends with two nails per end to secure.

Continue across the length of the boards, aligning studs and nailing to secure. When finished, you have two parallel boards -- plates -- with vertical boards -- studs -- nailed between.

Cut another 2-by-4 board to span the distance between two studs for a door top, or for each horizontal side of an opening. For a television, for example, you need two. Cut additional short lengths of boards to run as miniature studs above the door or opening, between the horizontal board and the plate. Nail all boards in place to secure.

Erect the wall in position. Hold a level up to the wall to ensure it is flush before nailing. Drive nails through the plates wherever there is a rafter, in the ceiling, and along the floor. Use additional nails to drive through the double studs into the studs in the adjoining walls.

Add insulation, such as fiberglass or styrofoam, cutting to size and pressing into place between the studs. Cover with a vapor barrier if the area will be unheated, stapling in place on the heated side of the wall. Finish with drywall or your preferred wall covering.

Add a door or place television and components as desired. When hanging the door, if you want a secret room behind the false wall, take steps to conceal the door as well. A door that looks like the wall that slides into place, a trick book case or a blanket and mirror covering the door, for example, make the fake walls and hidden room truly secret.