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How to Cover a Dry Wall Closet Opening

Remodeling often calls for covering holes in walls that were once doors, windows or other passageways. When you're working with drywall, the job involves constructing framing inside the hole, mounting new drywall on the framing and finishing the drywall to match the surrounding walls. Patching a hole in a closet is easier if the closet interior is unfinished, but even if it isn't, the job isn't difficult. If you can finish one wall to match the surrounding walls, using an artistic eye to match existing texture, you can just as easily finish two.

Things You'll Need

  • Drywall saw
  • Utility knife
  • Tape measure
  • 2-by-4-inch lumber
  • Circular saw
  • Hammer
  • Drill
  • No. 2 Phillips bit
  • 2 1/2-inch wood screws
  • Level
  • 1/2-inch drywall
  • 1 1/2-inch drywall screws
  • 4-, 8- and 10-inch drywall blades
  • Drywall joint compound
  • Drywall tape
  • Spray texture or paint roller (optional)
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Instructions

    • 1

      Widen the hole by cutting the top and bottom back to the nearest vertical studs on either side with a drywall saw. Make vertical cuts along both studs with a utility knife from the top of the hole to the bottom to expose half the face of each stud and remove the drywall off-cuts. Repeat this procedure on the other side of the wall.

    • 2

      Measure the distance between the vertical studs and cut two lengths of 2-by-4-inch lumber to that distance. Make them about 1/4 inch longer than the actual distance so you can wedge them into place at the top and bottom of the hole.

    • 3

      Tap the 2-by-4s into place with a hammer so their edges are halfway behind the existing drywall and halfway exposed. Screw them to the studs with 2 1/2-inch wood screws. If you are covering a door opening, rest the bottom length of wood on the floor and screw it either to the studs or to the floor.

    • 4

      Measure the distance between the two lengths of lumber you just installed and cut more 2-by-4s to fit upright between them. Cut enough uprights so you can space them 16 inches from each other, taking the measurements from the center of each upright. Plumb each upright with a level before you screw it to the top and bottom pieces.

    • 5

      Measure the dimensions of the hole and draw them on a sheet of 1/2-inch drywall. Cut the drywall by scoring along the longer edges of the drawing with a utility knife and breaking the sheet along each score line. Repeat the procedure to cut along the shorter edges. Make two cutouts in this way, one for the outside wall of the closet and one for the inside.

    • 6

      Place one of the drywall cutouts in the hole outside the closet and screw it to the framing you constructed with 1 1/2-inch drywall screws. Sink the head of each screw about 1/8 inch below the surface of the drywall. Screw the second cutout to the wall inside the closet in the same way.

    • 7

      Spread a bead of drywall joint compound, or mud, on the seam around the cutout on the exterior wall with a 4-inch drywall blade, lay drywall tape on the mud and scrape the tape with the blade to flatten it and remove excess mud. Repeat on the interior wall. Cover all screw heads with a coat of mud and scrape it flat.

    • 8

      Give the mud about 12 hours to dry, then apply a topcoat with an 8-inch blade and scrape it flat. Let it dry for the same amount of time, then apply a second topcoat with a 10-inch blade.

    • 9

      Match the texture of the existing wall by spreading joint compound with a drywall blade, spraying texture from a can or rolling on texture with a paint roller. The actual method depends on the type of texture you're trying to match. Omit this step if the wall is untextured.