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How Stair Handrails Are Constructed

Stair handrails come in a wide variety of colors, finishes and lengths, most often depending on the style and type of stairway unit. Proper material, shaping, size and installation ensure a safe, stable and attractive handrail for a unit in a home, commercial building or on a front porch. Although the styles vary significantly, the construction of stair handrails are generally the same.
  1. Safety Requirements

    • Handrail safety requirements depend on local building codes as well as the design of the staircase itself. For instance, OSHA states that when the top edge of a stairway doubles as a handrail, the distance between the tread and the top of the handrail must measure between 36 and 37 inches long. Handrails must also have a surface that prevents snagging, can be grasped onto, and doesn't cause punctures or scrapes. Handrails should also not extend beyond the system post at the bottom of the staircase, which creates an unsafe protrusion.

    Preparation

    • The amount of preparation involved in making a stair handrail varies depending on the type and how long the staircase is. Taking precise measurements of the length of space the handrail extends and the height from the top tread to where the top of the handrail will sit is important. Handrails should be continuous unless interrupted by doors or other architectural features. If the handrail will have a return, a piece of wood at the top or bottom of the system that attaches to the wall, that distance must also be determined.

    Construction

    • Making a handrail can be as simple as cutting a length of lumber, sanding and finishing it. The fixture typically has a round or slender square shape for easy and safe grasping. This typically requires the use of a saw and sander to get the desired shape. The handrail may be finished with a clear sealant or primed and painted, if wood. Metal handrails typically require welding or even smithing, if the rail is wrought iron, for instance. Scroll work or elaborate designs require further tooling on either material. Return and handrail pieces also need a 45-degree angle mitered on each end for a 90-degree angle when fit together. Handrails sitting atop balusters also require properly sized holes to be drilled on the underside for each spindle.

    Installation

    • If returns are being used, they're attached to the handrail before installation. The piece may be sanded and sealed at this time. The installer mounts rail brackets to the wall, which are chosen to match the handrail. This may involve pre-drilling holes on the wall based on previous measurements. A bracket at one end of the system is installed first, followed by the one at the opposite end of the unit followed by the middle brackets, if any. The handrail is attached to the brackets with provided screws per manufacturer instructions for a finished handrail.