How to Connect Rafters to Studs

Determine the composition of the soffit panels under the roof eaves. Plywood or other board panels can usually be taken down by removing the securing nails or wood screws. Vinyl soffits, if not too hardened by age, may be bent slightly and removed from their mounting track. Number the wood and vinyl soffit panels as they are removed for reinstallation in the correct order.

Measure the distance from the top edge of the exposed rafter down to the outside edge of the stud vertically aligned with the rafter. Select a twist strap of sufficient length to connect the rafter to the stud. Hurricane twist straps are commonly available in lengths from 12 inches to 30 inches with the upper third of the strap attaching to the side of the rafter and the lower two-thirds twisted 90 degrees to connect to the stud.

Place the upper portion of the twist strap against the flat side of the rafter. Align the bent section of the strap with the transition between the rafter and the perpendicular top plate beam. The lower portion of the strap should extend down the outer edge of the stud below.

Drive seven 8D by 1 and 1/2-inch nails through the diagonally spaced nail holes in the top portion of the strap to attach it to the rafter. A strap in the 12 inch to 30 inch range will typically require 14 nails which should be equally divided between the rafter and the stud.

Drive seven 8D by 1 and 1/2-inch nails through the diagonally spaced nail holes in the lower portion of the strap to attach it to the outer edge of the stud.

Install twist straps on as many accessible rafters with vertically aligned studs as possible. Ideally, twist straps should be installed on all rafter/stud connections. However, if accessibility is limited and costs are a factor, rafters and studs within six feet to eight feet of the outside corners bear the most stress from high winds and should be considered the primary sites for strap connection.

Reinstall the numbered soffit panels in the reverse order of removal.