Sand the wood in a room other than the room you will be varnishing in. Dust will settle on wet varnish, so the work area must be clean.
Lay the wood flat on a sturdy surface. Lay a cloth or paper under it as protection. Any slant to the wood will cause the varnish to run because of its slow drying time.
Brush on the first coat. Thin out the varnish a bit, mixing half mineral spirits or paint thinner with half varnish. Go with or against the grain until the last coat, when you must go with the wood grain.
Let the wood sit overnight to dry. Touch it gently to determine whether it has cured before moving on.
Sand the varnished surface with fine sandpaper of 280 grit or finer. Self-lubricated, or stearated, sandpaper won't clog as easily as traditional types. Wipe away sanding dust with a cloth.
Start on one end of the wood and apply a full-strength coat of varnish. Work your way to the other end with even brush strokes.
Allow the piece to cure fully. Scratch the surface with 320 or finer grit sandpaper. You will do this for every coat. Wipe away bits of dust left behind.
Do as many coats as desired. The final coat must go with the grain. Let it dry. Do not scuff the surface after the final coat.
Lay the piece of wood on a flat surface. Wipe it down until it is free of sand or debris.
Dip a large brush in shellac. Start at one end and work to the other in short strokes, applying a thin coat. Shellac must be applied quickly and in one direction. It does not stretch out like varnish or paint. Be careful not to miss a spot because rebrushing is near impossible due to the fast drying time.
Sandpaper the shellac once it's dry. Remove all but the shellac that is wedged in the gaps and holes. Wipe away dust.
Apply another coat of shellac, if desired. Do not apply more than two coats per day.
Follow the shellac with varnish, if desired.