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How to Make a Metal Press

A metal press is a hydraulically operated unit that moves two surfaces together under extreme pressure. When the metal is inserted between these surfaces, you can apply a wide variety of bending, stamping and compression effects. The press makes your job a lot easier whether you are working at a home shop or commercial site. If you can't afford a commercial press or just don't want to spend the money, you can make your own metal press in a home workshop. It does not cost much money to build a hydraulic jack welded inside an enclosed frame with a pin-through, adjustable opposing surface. However, the job does require skill and experience as a handyman and welder.

Things You'll Need

  • Six feet of 2-by-4-inch 18-gauge rectangular tube steel
  • Seven feet of 2-by-3 1/2-inch 18-gauge channel steel
  • Four feet of 4-by-4-inch 18-gauge right angle steel
  • Tape measure
  • T-square
  • Heavy black marker
  • Steel vise
  • Protective goggles
  • 9.5-amp reciprocating saw
  • 1/2-inch power drill
  • 12-ton hydraulic steel jack
  • 5/8-inch-by-4-inch threaded steel bolts
  • 5/8-inch-by-1-inch threaded steel bolts
  • 6-by-6-by-1/2-inch steel plate
  • 140-amp stick welder
  • Heavy steel file
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Instructions

  1. Cut and Drill the Press Components

    • 1

      Measure and cut two 30-inch lengths of channel steel for the uprights and one 24-inch length of channel steel for the top cross-brace. When bolted together along with the bottom (tubular steel) brace, these form the standing rectangular structure which frames the unit. Measure and drill two 5/8-inch holes in the channel of one end of both 30-inch members. These should be ¾-inch from the sides of the piece, 1 ½ inches (on center) apart and 1 inch in from the end to allow the vertical members to be bolted to the angle steel feet.

    • 2

      Repeat the drills on both ends of the 24-inch length of channel steel. These will be the same measurements as those on the 30-inch lengths of steel. Measure and drill two 5/8-inch double holes through both flanges of the channel, one above the other. These also should be 1 ½ inches apart (on center) through the center of the flange on the top end of both 30-inch channel members and ¾ inches and 1 ½ inches, respectively, from the end of it. These holes will allow the short channel to be bolted across the top of the long channels.

    • 3

      Measure and cut two 24-inch lengths of angle steel for the flat-lying feet of the frame. Measure and drill two 5/8-inch holes, 1 ½ inches (on center) apart, 1 inch from the bend and ¾-inch from the center point of the length. These holes will be on either side of the 12-inch center point of the steel. Repeat the drills on the second length of angle steel.

    • 4

      Measure and drill a 5/8-inch double hole through both flanges of the channel and then through the center of the flange on the bottom end of both 30-inch channel members and 1 inch from the end of them. These holes will allow a tubular steel member (the base plate) to be bolted to the bottom of the long channels. Along with the 24-inch channel member on top, these will also frame the unit.

    • 5

      Measure and drill six 5/8-inch double holes through both flanges of the channel in both 30-inch verticals every two inches. Start 12 inches from the bottom of the channel members and run upward. These holes will allow the upper compression plate to be relocated for varying size work.

    • 6

      Measure and cut three 24-inch lengths of tubular steel. Mount one piece in a steel vise with the short side facing you, then measure and dot the center point of a double 5/8-inch hole through both sides of the tube to be drilled. The location of the hole is centered up-and-down and 1 inch in from the end of the tube. Drill the hole and repeat at both ends of two of the tubular members.

    • 7

      Vertically mount the first piece of tubular steel in the vise with the widest side against the jaws of the vise. Measure and draw a cut out on the end, taking out the upper portion and the lower portion of the wide side metal. Leave the drilled, short sides as flanges. The dimensions of this double cutout are 3 ½ inches by 2 inches. Make these cuts on both ends of all tubular steel members with a reciprocating saw. Clean them up with a file. Two of the cutout tubular members will ride freely in the press -- captive inside the vertical members -- and serve as the compression surfaces. The third will serve as the base plate.

    Assemble the Press

    • 8

      Lay the 30-inch channel members on a flat surface. Lay them on their side edge with the the channels facing inward. Bolt the 24-inch channel member -- the one facing you -- to the upper side of both 30-inch channels using the long bolts. This will form the upper cross-member.

    • 9

      Stand the partially-assembled rectangle unit up. Bolt the angle steel members at its base, using the short bolts. One flange of the angle steel should be vertical and against the base of the channel member. The other flange should be flat and extend outward.

    • 10

      Slide one of the the tubular steel members -- with holes --into the frame at an angle. Level it out and slide it down to the ground. Bolt it to the base of the 30-inch verticals, using the long bolts, to form the base plate for the unit. The standing unit is structurally complete.

    • 11

      Spot weld the base of the hydraulic jack to the center of base plate.

    • 12

      Slide the tubular steel member without holes into the assembly. Work it down to a horizontal position, resting on the top of the jack. Spot weld the 6-inch-by-6-inch steel plate to the upper center of this member. This is the lower compression surface.

    • 13

      Slide the third tubular steel member into the frame at an angle. Level it out and slide it up and above the first hole stops. Insert long bolts through these hole stops as well as the vertical member, then out the other side. Loosely attach the nuts. This is the adjustable upper compression surface.