To prepare to make a plunge cut into wood, you must determine a starting point and plan the path of your cut. Reciprocating saw blades have teeth on only one side. Therefore, drawing the reciprocating saw side-to-side or toward your body is safer and more practical than pushing the blade away from your body or upward. If necessary, builders lay out cut lines before beginning the plunge cut. Creating plunge cuts in metal surfaces is generally unsafe. Therefore, to prepare to make a center cut in metal materials, you must first drill a starter hole to slip the blade through the material's center.
Reciprocating saw blades protrude from the nose of the tool's body through a tilting plate called a "shoe." Firmly pressing the shoe or nose of the saw against the work surface stabilizes the tool and prevents excessive vibration. Note that if you begin a plunge cut with the blade touching the work surface, the sudden movement of the blade will cause the entire tool to jerk. Therefore, the blade should rest just slightly above the work surface before you pull the tool's trigger; this allows the blade's tip to immediately puncture the wood. After the blade penetrates the wood, steadily tilting the tool's body forces the blade through the wood.
The primary hazards involved in making plunge cuts with a reciprocating saw are the sudden jerks that occur when the blade's teeth become lodged in the work material or the blade's tip bounces off of the work surface instead of digging in. Caught teeth cause the saw's body to suddenly pull toward the work surface, and a bounced tip causes the body to lunge toward the operator. Although most carpenters occasionally experience these problems, beginning a cut with concentration and a steady hand reduces sudden jerks. If possible, starting the plunge cut through a starter hole nearly guarantees problem-free operation. Importantly, saw operators must remember to wear proper safety gear while operating a reciprocating saw, including goggles and gloves.
Reciprocating saws are often the best choice for plunge-cutting flush against adjacent surfaces, such as studs. However, several tools can easily create plunge cuts several inches away from adjacent surfaces. The most common alternative plunge cut tools are circular saws, particularly "plunge cut" saws, and plunge routers. Both plunge cut circular saws and plunge routers are designed to safely lower cutting attachments into work materials.