Measuring is key for ceramic tiles and is especially important when tiling above tubs. You may want to use rounded edges at the base of the tiled walls, which requires extra measurement, or you may want to use smaller borders, which can complicate tile arrangements. Because you cannot put tiles on the walls in a test pattern, measurement is key, and you should always order a little more tile than needed in case of mistakes.
You cannot simply install ceramic tile on any surface, especially in a bathroom. Before you begin, you must install cement backerboard on the walls. This is a backing designed for ceramic tile and is effective at providing a sturdy, level base for the work. Screw the board in with corrosion-resistant screws.
Before beginning the tile work, protect the tub from any dropped tile or spilled mortar. The easiest way to do this is to use plastic tarps or sheets that can be safely stretched across the tub and then taped down.
When a ceramic floor is installed, installers find it easiest to mark off halfway points and sections using a chalk line for a reference point. The same method works when tiling bathtub walls. You can create perfectly level chalk likes and use them to help line up and space the rows of tile as you go.
When it comes time to install the tile itself, you will need to choose between a mastic and a mortar adhesive. Mortar adhesives are more traditional and typically bond better to cement backerboard, but they also take a long time to mix, set and dry. A mastic is a plastic-based adhesive that allows the tiles to stick to the board more easily and requires less work. For the do-it-yourselfer, mastic may be a better option, although it may also lower the quality of the design.
When you begin to lay the tile, remember to use grout spacers between the tile to leave enough room for the grout lines. Grout spacers are sold in different sizes based on the width of grout lines you want to use, and they make it simple to adjust for those lines while laying the tile.