Lay out the table top. The preferred method for tables is to center everything so that you have the same size cuts around the entire perimeter. Measure the table and divide the width in half. Use that measurement to mark the table at opposite ends and snap a chalk line between the two to dissect the table into two halves. Repeat the process for the length so you have two intersecting chalk lines in the middle.
Install the slate tile. Use a notched trowel to apply a layer of thinset onto the table top. Spread the thinset mortar evenly and in several directions to ensure total coverage. Leave the chalk lines visible as a reference point. Press the slate tiles down into the bed of thinset and move them slightly in all directions before placing them in their final position. Start in the center and work your way to the outside edges. Eyeball the grout joint width, allowing for variances in the size of each slate tile. Allow the installation 24 hours to dry.
Grout the installation. Push the grout into the joints between the slate tiles with the grout float and clean any excess off the face. Allow 15 to 20 minutes for the grout to dry. Dampen a sponge and lightly smooth the grout joints with a circular motion. Wring the sponge out and pull it across the joints diagonally to remove any remaining grout haze. Allow another 24 hours for the grout to dry.
Smooth the edges of the slate table with the polishing kit. Use the roughest sanding pad with the grinder in the kit, and run it over the entire perimeter edge to define your preferred angle of bullnose edging. Use subsequent softer pads to polish the edge to your preferred level of sheen. Only use the roughest pads if you prefer the natural look, as each level of subsequent sanding adds more polish.