How to Build a Lofted Wood-Frame Barn

Design the Barn

• 1

  Lay out the design of the floor plan for the barn. Give consideration to the number of stalls and their sizes, storage and service requirements and the size and number of doors, stall gates and windows. Draw these into an overall layout and commit them to graph paper with a T-square and pencil.

• 2

  Design the trusses of the barn. Since the structure will be a two-story barn with space above the first floor for work or habitation, design the trusses with this in mind. Choose either an open-plan truss (trapezoidal space) or a storage-plan truss (rectangular space).

• 3

  Consider the barn site, access, and weather in your design of the footers and slab dimensions. Give primary attention to the elevation of the intended site, providing animal access when the ground is wet or snowy as well as keeping wetness off the floor. Consider any possibility of placing the barn under trees to keep it cool in hot weather. Give consideration to the prevailing wind direction and align the long axis (where air will move through the structure) with the wind direction for barn ventilation.

• 4

  Design the rafter height, pitch of the roof and roof type and shingle requirements. Design the height of the roof to maximize the internal dimensions of the loft. Design the pitch as flat as possible, but not to the extreme, especially in snowy climates where snow buildup is a risk.

• 5

  Design and lay out the interior dimensions of the barn. This includes all ground-level spaces, stalls, rooms and storage as well as window and door locations and dimensions. Design the layout of the loft space including vertical access or stairs, and their location and dimensions. The optimum dimension for an adult horse stall is 12-by-12 feet, but smaller breeds can make do with a 12-by-10 stall. Design the stall gates to be as wide as possible.

Build the Barn

• 6

  Level the slab site and stake out the dimensions of the slab and footers. Dig, frame and lay rebar in the footers. Pour the concrete and snap lines for the installation of J-bolts for stanchion connection. Allow the concrete to cure for seven days.

• 7

  Erect the 6-by-6-inch stanchions in the concrete post anchors and connect them to the embedded J-bolts. Erect the 4-by-4-inch outside posts and nail them to temporary boards staked outside the slab. Nail the horizontal beams and sill members together. Attach the skeletal structure to the vertical stanchions with 2-by-12 lumber. Lift and attach the truss above the vertical stanchions. Frame and nail the king post, rafters and eaves.

• 8

  Cut and lay the roof sheathing, tar paper and shingles. Square, cut and nail all the outside materials and shingles — front, back and sides. Frame, cut and install the stall separators and gates. Stall separators (the mini-wall between stalls) should be at least seven feet high and at a minimum should be framed 3/4-inch plywood and 2-by-6 construction.

• 9

  Frame-in and finish the loft. This includes the staircase and loft door and windows. Stretch and install wiring, junction boxes and plumbing lines. Insert insulation in the walls and ceiling. Measure, cut and nail wood paneling around the walls of the loft. Trim the doors and windows. Regardless of whether this space is for work or habitation it should be designed with human occupation in mind. Make the windows as large as possible and design the doors for furniture access. Allow for the maximum head-space above 8 feet, and provide considerations for storage and perhaps inset furniture.

• 10

  Install all ground-level windows and exterior doors. Install both wiring and plumbing lines on ground level. Attach lights and plumbing fixtures on both levels.

• 11

  Attach both electrical and plumbing lines to outside posts and mains. Test all circuits and fixtures.