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How to Add a Receptacle to a Cabinet in a Kitchen for a Microwave

A microwave requires a grounded, three-prong 120v/60Hz electrical receptacle for power. Instead of removing the kitchen cabinet and fishing new wiring for the outlet through the wall, use flexible armored cable conduit and a metal electrical box. Although the box and cable will be visible at the back of the cabinet, this type of installation is less frustrating and faster than opening a wall and cutting through the cabinet.

Things You'll Need

  • Metal electrical box
  • Screwdriver
  • Metal bushing and locknut assembly
  • Flexible armored cable, grounded 12/2 gauge
  • Straps
  • Armored cable cutter
  • Plastic armored cable bushing
  • Wire strippers
  • 120v/60Hz grounded electrical receptacle
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Electrical tape
  • Electrical box face plate
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Instructions

    • 1

      Determine the location for a receptacle box within the cabinet. For most microwaves, the electrical receptacle is best located toward the back and top of the cabinet, slightly above the area where the microwave will sit. If your cabinet has a drawer, avoid areas where the drawer will slide or bump up against the receptacle.

    • 2

      Remove the small, coin-shaped metal disc on the bottom of the metal electrical box. Insert a metal bushing and locknut clamp into the knockout home and screw tightly to the box. The locknut holds the bushing clamp to the electrical box.

    • 3

      Screw the electrical box into the wood of the back of the cabinet.

    • 4

      Run flexible armored cable to the cabinet. Drill a 1/2-inch hole through the cabinet, if necessary, and push the cable through the hole. To keep the cable out of sight, run the armored cable in concealed places, such as along the tops of the cabinets. Secure the cable down every 12 inches with armored cable straps and screws.

    • 5

      Thread the flexible armored cable through the metal bushing clamp that you attached to the knockout hole. Cut off about 4 inches of the metal armored sheath of the cable using an armored cable cutter. Be careful that you do not cut through or damage the plastic-insulated copper wires inside.

    • 6

      Insert a plastic bushing into the end of the newly cut armored cable sheath, tucking the bushing into the small space between the ragged metal sheath of the cable and the wires. The bushing protects the sensitive plastic-insulated wires from the ragged metal edges of the armored cable sheath.

    • 7

      Allow approximately 5 inches of wire to protrude from the box. Screw the small screw on the metal bushing clamp to secure the flexible armored cable to the box.

    • 8

      Strip about 1 inch of plastic from the black wire and the white wire using the wire strippers. With needle-node pliers, bend the ends of each of the three copper wires into a U shape.

    • 9

      Grasp the 120v/60Hz electrical receptacle in one hand and loop the U of the bare copper wire onto the green-colored screw of the receptacle. Tighten the copper wire by screwing the green screw.

    • 10

      Loop the U of the black wire onto the brass-colored screw of the receptacle. Tighten the wire to the screw. Loop the U of the white wire onto the silver-colored screw of the receptacle. Tighten the wire to the screw.

    • 11

      Loop electrical tape around the sides of the receptacle so that the tape covers the brass and silver screws and the copper wires. This is a precautionary measure that helps to prevent arcing.

    • 12

      Push the receptacle and its wires into the electrical box. Screw the receptacle to the slots at the top and bottom of the electrical box. Screw on a face plate to protect the wires.