How to Build a Counter Top Corbel

Sketch out a corbel design for your countertop on a piece of paper. Since they are largely functional, rather than decorative, countertop corbels are generally simple designs, such as a version of the French curve -- a backward S -- or a triangular-shaped wedge shape.

Consider the countertop location as well. Underneath a cabinet countertop, the corbel's hypotenuse can protrude more, while under a bar countertop, a concave design allows more knee room. Concentrate on the look of the corbel, not the size or specifics, until you find a style pleasing to your eye.

Calculate the size of corbel needed. Use the manufacturer's countertop installation specifications to determine the depth of the corbel from front to back. This corresponds to the depth of the countertop overhang, from the cabinet base outward toward the countertop edge. Typically, a corbel must run from a minimum of half the countertop overhang up to three-quarters of the depth.

Transfer the design to a piece of 3/4-inch lumber measuring at least the depth and height of the corbel needed. Make light pencil marks indicating these dimensions on the wood. Draw the design within the parameters. Use a pencil compass to perfect all the curves and a straightedge for straight elements.

For a simple triangular design with a concave hypotenuse that is 10 inches deep and 16 inches tall, draw two perpendicular lines in an L shape. Set the protractor in position to make a C shape connecting the corbel legs. Sand any mistakes away and redraw until you are satisfied.

Cut the corbel out with a band saw for best results. A band saw's blade is more flexible than a jigsaw and is easier to maneuver wood through the blade. Use a table-mounted jigsaw as a last resort. Sand the completed corbel until the edges are smooth only.

Place the corbel on another piece of similar lumber as a template. Trace around the corbel. Repeat twice more. Cut each of these three corbels out exactly as the first was cut. Do not use one of the traced corbels as a template for additional corbels, since copies of copies can stray too far from the original.

Spread a generous layer of wood glue across the surface of the first corbel. Align the next corbel and stick it in place. Spread another layer of glue and attach the third piece. Glue again and align the last piece. Use clamps to stick the pieces together for about 24 hours or until dry. If you don't have clamps, place heavy bricks, books or similar weights on top and wait.

Cut a square piece of 3/4-inch wood that is as wide and deep as the top of the corbel. A corbel that is 8 inches deep and 3 inches wide requires a similar square block. Make another square piece that is slightly larger by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Skip this step and finish sanding the corbel if further decoration is not desired.

Measure and cut four pieces of decorative molding or trim to correspond to the dimensions of the larger block. Cut the ends at a 45-degree angle to allow each piece to fit together at the corners. Nail to the top block with finishing nails, allowing the trim to extend down. Spread glue underneath the block and attach to the smaller block. Clamp to dry.

Glue the top blocks and trim to the corbel top. Drive nails down through the block into the corbel to attach.

Finish sanding the rough corbel. Take care to stroke with the grain instead of against it. Cover flat expanses as well as curves and round off edges as desired. Stain and finish as preferred. Drill holes through the bottom and top of the corbel as specified to attach to the cabinet and countertop above. Cover nail or screw holes with wood filler to treat any blemishes or holes.