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Staining Contractor Grade Cabinets

There's no real magic involving stain techniques. It's a simple matter of application. Cabinets are large, and require constant movement of the spray gun and cloth used to remove the stain. Save yourself some money by staining contractor grade cabinets yourself. It's rewarding, you get to choose the color, and receive the kudos.
  1. Definition

    • Contractor grade cabinets, also referred to as modular cabinets, are standard cabinets. They are assembled in pieces, and typically are cheaper than custom cabinets. Contractors use them for affordability. It might also mean the cabinets have no finish, consisting of only bare lumber on the face, with plywood -- or more likely particleboard -- for the interior shelves and jambs. There's nothing wrong with contractor grade cabinets. If properly finished and installed, you can't tell the difference unless you're an experienced cabinetmaker. Contractor grade cabinets can save hundreds of dollars, which can be used in other places during the building process.

    Modules

    • Modular or contractor grade cabinets may be delivered in boxes. Remove all the cabinets from the boxes, and remove the doors and drawers. Since you're staining them all together, choose a garage or room big enough to hold everything, if possible. Set up sawhorses and place long scrap boards across the sawhorses to support the cabinets. Place as many of the cabinets on the boards as possible. If the cabinets are already installed, that's fine -- you can stain them where they are. If this is the case, remove the doors and drawers, place them across the sawhorses, and leave the cabinets in place.

    Spray

    • Large items or bulk items such as numerous doors and drawers require stain spraying equipment for efficiency. Wiping on the stain by hand creates blotches and uneven color because it dries too fast. Begin by filling a 1-quart stain gun with stain. Put on safety glasses and breathing protection. Spray an even, wet coat of stain onto the cabinets one at a time, starting on the inside of the cabinet. Move quickly to the face and sides, spraying a wet coat on all the exposed surfaces. When one cabinet is completely wet with stain, stop spraying. Put down the gun and pick up a dry cloth. Wipe all of the stain off the face and exterior sides of the cabinet. You don't need to wipe the stain off on the inside. Just let it dry as is. Spray each cabinet, wipe it off and move to the next one.

    Doors and Drawers

    • Do all of the doors by laying them out across sawhorses with lumber or scrap wood on top. Place the doors face-down, spray two or three of them, then immediately wipe them off with a dry cloth. Move to the next two or three doors and repeat. If the stain begins to dry at any point before you're finished spraying, stop and wipe it off; you're spraying too many doors. Flip the doors over when finished spraying the backs, and repeat staining on the face. When you've finished the doors, remove them from the sawhorses and place all of the drawers across the sawhorses. Spray the inside of the drawer box first, then the face. Stop and wipe the stain off the face with a dry cloth before it dries. You don't need to wipe the inside of the boxes; just allow the stain to dry. Allow at least one hour for water- or solvent-based stains to dry before adding lacquer. Allow at least 72 hours for oil-based stains to dry. Consult manufacturer's instructions printed on the can for exact drying time.