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Do It Yourself Kitchen Tile Counters & Backsplash

Installing a tile counter along with a backsplash behind it can at first appear to be a daunting task. From creating a counter base to grouting the tile joints, the project is a large one that will likely take you a few days to complete. Taking the process step-by-step, however, cuts the project down to size. No single step is too difficult for a determined DIY homeowner to complete, and no specific experience is necessary. A beautiful countertop is just a matter of proceeding at a steady pace, and making sure that you’re confident with each step before proceeding with it.

Things You'll Need

  • Measuring tape
  • Chalk
  • Straightedge
  • 1/2-inch plywood board
  • Skill saw
  • Wood screws
  • Cement backer board
  • Thinset mortar
  • Notched trowel
  • Drywall screws
  • Granite or ceramic tiles
  • Edging tiles
  • Tile wet saw
  • Tile cutter
  • Tile spacers
  • Unsanded grout
  • Grout float
  • Masking tape
  • Tile and grout sealer
  • Brush
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure the size of the cabinet frame you’re using as a base for the counter. Using a tape measure, measure both the length and the width of the top of the frame and transfer those measurements over to a piece of one-half-inch plywood. Use chalk and a straightedge to draw a square on the plywood the same size as the cabinet frame.

    • 2

      Cut the square from the plywood with a skill saw, then place the cut board onto the frame to check for fit. The sides of the board should be flush with the sides of the frame. If you want an overhang off the sides of the cabinet frame, then add the size of the overhang desired to the measured dimensions prior to marking and cutting the board.

    • 3

      Attach the plywood to the cabinet frame with wood screws driven through the plywood and into the frame beneath using an electric drill with a screw bit. Set the screws so that they’re countersunk beneath the surface of the board and so that the backer board that makes the second layer of the counter core will lie flush with the plywood surface.

    • 4

      Use the same dimensions as the plywood to mark a piece of cement backer board with chalk and a straightedge. Cut the board with the skill saw outdoors to avoid dust within the kitchen. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar in a bucket with enough water to attain the consistency of peanut butter. Use an electric drill containing a mixer bit attachment. Spread this thinset over the plywood with a trowel, and then place the backer board onto the plywood with the sides flush. Secure the backer board in place with drywall screws placed every eight inches and countersunk into the surface. Make certain the drywall screws are shorter than the combined depth of the backer board and plywood sheet.

    • 5

      Measure the length of the top section of your edging tiles and mark a layout line along the edges of the backer board to leave enough room for their placement. Cover the rest of the backer board surface with tiles to test-fit their arrangement. Use tile spacers to keep the joints between the tiles uniform, and arrange them so that as many full-sized tiles as possible are used on the surface. Leave a space of one-eighth inch between the tiles and the wall. Mark all of the tiles that require cutting to fit in place, using the chalk to create cutting lines. Cut the tiles using the appropriate cutting tool for the tile type. For example, use a wet saw for cutting granite tiles, or use a tile cutter for ceramics. Always wear safety goggles when cutting tiles. Place the cut tiles onto the board to ensure their fit. Remove the tiles from the board.

    • 6

      Cover a 3-square-foot section of the backer board with thinset mortar using a notched trowel. Tilt the trowel onto its side and go over the mortar with the notches while holding it at a 45-degree angle to create adhesive ridges in the mortar.

    • 7

      Press the tiles into the mortar following your test-fitted pattern. Put any tile spacers used in between the tiles to keep them uniformly spaced. After filling a section of the counter, proceed to the next section, placing first the full-sized tiles, then the partial tiles, and then placing the edging tiles along the edge of the counter, using the mortar on both the countertop and the counter edge. Allow the mortar to set overnight.

    • 8

      Pull the spacers from between the tiles and then spread grout over the tiles and into the lines between with the front edge of a grout float. Leave the space between the tiles and the walls ungrouted. Remove any grout remaining on top of the tiles with a damp sponge after filling the joints. Wait about 30 minutes and then wipe the tiles clean with a lint-free cloth.

    • 9

      Mount any skirting tiles around the sides of the counter if the edging tile did not reach the bottom of the plywood board. Use thinset as an adhesive and make certain the joints match those along the top of the counter. Strap the tiles down with masking tape to prevent their falling, and let them sit in place overnight for the mortar to cure. Remove the tape the next day and grout the joints.

    • 10

      Use the same process of tile application to tile your backsplash along the wall behind the counter. Remove any outlet covers before beginning. Keep the backsplash joint lines consistent with those of the counter, and cut tiles as needed to go around the outlets. Hold the tiles in place overnight with masking tape, then remove the tape and grout them to finish the application process.

    • 11

      Fill the gap between the tiles and the wall with a bead of silicone caulking to prevent moisture from seeping beneath the tile surfaces.

    • 12

      Allow the mortar and grout to cure for two weeks. Seal the counter and backsplash with a layer of tile and grout sealant brushed into place with a paintbrush. Wait 48 hours longer for the sealant to dry before using the counter.