How to Install Wood Soffits Above Cabinets

Move a stud finder along the wall above and behind the cabinets. Mark the location of each stud. Find the center of the stud and draw a vertical line on the wall in pencil. Move the stud finder along the ceiling directly over the cabinet. Find the ceiling joists. Mark the center of each ceiling joist using a long line in pencil.

Measure the width of the cabinet from one wall or side to the other. Deduct the thickness of your cabinet facing wood for each side that will be visible, plus 1/16 inch. If your cabinets run between two walls, you will not have any side wood showing and you should use your full length less 1/16 inch. Cut three pieces of 2-by-4-inch board to this length. Label these boards A, B and C.

Measure the depth of the top of the cabinet and subtract twice the thickness of the 2-by-4-inch board, plus the thickness of the cabinet facing board. Cut one board for every 16 inches of long board. Add one extra framing board. Label these boards D.

Place boards A and B on their 2-inch-thick long edge so that they are parallel with even ends. Position one D board between the two boards. Stand the D board on its 2-inch-thick long edge and align it with the ends of the A and B boards. Nail two framing nails through the side of board A and into the end of board D. Repeat for each D board. Nail two framing nails through the side of board B and into the end of board D. Repeat for each D board.

Measure 16 inches from the center of the end D board and add another D board. Nail through the sides of board A into the ends of the new D board. Measure another 16 inches from the center of the new D board. Mark the A board. Nail through the sides of board A into the ends of the new D board. Continue measuring, marking and adding new D boards until you reach the end of board A. Turn the frame around and nail through the side of board B into the ends of the D boards.

Place a nail set on the head of the finish nails holding the crown molding trim to the top of the cabinets. Drive the nail through so that the molding comes loose. Remove the molding for later.

Place the framing on the top of the cabinet. It should be smaller than the cabinet. Measure from the ceiling to the top of the front long board. Deduct the thickness of the 2-by-4-inch board. Cut two pieces of board to this length. Label these boards E.

Place the C board on its 2-inch length edge. Position one E board at each end with each board on its 2-inch edge. Nail two nails through the side of the C board into the end of the E board. Repeat for both E boards. Lift the partial frame over the first frame and check your fit. If the fit looks good, cut more E boards, one for every 16 inches of the length of the C board. Use the same technique you used with the first frame to attach each E board to the C board at every 16 inches on center.

Bring the first frame down. Position the frame so that you can nail the open end of the E boards to the B board of the completed frame. You are building an L-shaped frame. Drive two nails through the end of each board. Hold the completed frame in place tight over the cabinets. Nail the finished frame to the wall and ceiling using your stud and joist center lines as a guide.

Measure and cut the cabinet face panel to cover the entire face of the new soffit. Test fit the panel. Use wood shims so that the wood face lines up with the face of the cabinet frame exactly. Cabinet facing is sold in the cabinet section of home improvement stores, and most standard cabinets can be easily matched. Apply construction adhesive along the front face of the framing and press the face panel into position. Use finish nails along the top edge to assist in holding the panel in place while the adhesive dries. Nail every 6 inches. Measure, cut and fit the side panel if you have one.

Attach the same crown molding you removed earlier using finish nails. In some cases, you may need to apply an iron-on edge for any side of the cabinet face that is visible.