How to Build a Bar With a Sink

Nail 2-by-6-inch soleplate to the floor outline for the bar cabinetry, fitting the short side of an L-shaped bar to abutt a house interior wall. Drive 4-inch wood screws into floor joists with an electric screwdriver to help secure the overall weight of the finished bar.

Cut the bar framing top plate from 2-by-6-inch boards. Miter the corners of the top plate so that the bar's finished covering will fit smoothly over it. Mark the placement of bar side wall framing studs on the top plate and sole plate.

Use a circular saw to cut bar framing studs that will fit between the top and bottom plates. Cut framing to build the finished bar height to 42 inches, which will include the thickness of the bar countertop material. Drive screws into the studs from the top side of the upper plate. Drive 4-inch screws at an angle into the bottom of the framing studs so the screws grab the sole plate tightly.

Secure the bar framing that will abutt the wall with 4-inch screws to house wall studs. Run wiring and plumbing into the bar cabinetry from an adjoining kitchen or bath through this abutting wall.

Cut 1/2-inch plywood in sections with a circular saw to cover bar framing. Use 2-inch wood screws to hold the plywood tightly to the bar framework. Cut wood veneering sheeting with a jigsaw to cover the plywood.

Glue the veneer sections into place. Apply the glue to the plywood and veneer, letting it dry to a tacky state. Fit the veneer over the plywood and roll with a J-roller to smoothly it firmly.

Cut the bar top from 3/4-inch medium density particle board, leaving a 12-inch bar overhang for sitting stools. Cut the blanks with a circular saw and jigsaw, cutting the sink and faucet openings as well. Put 2-by-4-inch boards under the blanks to lift them for cutting. Cut the sink opening 1/2-inch smaller around the edges than the actual sink edge will be. Use a paddle bit to drill a hole where one of the sink corners is marked. Put a jigsaw blade into the hole to cut the opening.

Flip the blanks upside down to transfer the dimensions to faux-leather laminate. Draw the cutout for the sink and faucets holes, too. Leave a 1-inch border and cut the laminate with a carbide-tipped scoring knife. Break the laminate along the score lines.

Glue the particle board sections together, clamping them until the glue dries. Use glue and countersunk screws to install cleats across joints on the bottom side as reinforcement. Do this along the front edges as well to make a double-thickness lip.

Apply contact adhesive to press the laminate over the particle board and the laminate back side. Allow to dry to a tacky state and use a J-roller to press the laminate into place. Bolt the sink into place and hook up water lines and drain lines for the sink under the bar. Finish up the bar interior with shelving made from 3/4-inch oak plywood covered with faux leather laminate.